Sprezzatura

Whether you want to call it nonchalant, unstudied, carefree, artful dishevelment, sartorial rebellion, or sprezzatura, the concept is the same: men’s outfits should never look too perfect. An outfit should rely on the tailoring and fit rather than an obviously studied presentation of colors and fabrics and patterns. Does this mean that style should not follow rules, classic idioms and social norms? No, it is important that the rules are known, understood, internalized and most of the time followed. Dressing with the confines of societal norms is necessary, especially at events that call for it. Wear a shirt, jeans and Chuck Taylors to a job interview and you most likely won’t get the job. Wear a tuxedo to the office and you will be laughed out of the building. Wear a conservative suit and tie combination on a first date and you will come off as stodgy and boring. Wear a white linen suit to a Christmas party and you will forever be remembered as “that guy”.

At the same point, if you always make sure that your pocket square matches your tie exactly, your shirt is extra starched and no fashion rule is ever broken, then your wardrobe will make you seem like an un-original try-hard who is downright unapproachable. But if you break some rules and make your style nonchalant, cool and modern, you will come off as a cool and hip guy with a great sense of style. After all we are men and part of our charm is our idiosyncrasies. Ask any married woman why she really loves her husband and you will get a list of things he does wrong that she loves about him, a list of enduring faults that he has and will be able to change. Our charm comes from our lack of perfection, so should our style reflect our own lack of perfection? I certainly can embrace imperfection as an asset and can flaunt it in my personal style. But how can I accomplish this without looking like uncoordinated style misfit?

First, let’s understand what sprezzatura means and where it comes from. Sprezzatura, is a term that originates from Baldassare Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier. It is defined as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it.” Otherwise defined as "Artful Dishevelment". When I think of the embodiment of sprezzatura, I think of Columbo, the TV show from the 1970s. Not for his dress (even though it was very sprezzatura), but instead his carefree, nonchalant demeanor that had a distinct and measured purpose. Columbo would catch people off guard with his hap-hazard demeanor and yet was calculating using his nonchalance as an asset. That is my goal with fashion, to be studied, measured and calculated in what I wear but make it look effortless, carefree and artfully disheveled. It takes a lot of planning to look unstudied.

Varying Degrees of Sprezzatura –

Since style changes based on the occasion this has a wide range of implementations and execution depending on what, where and when of the outfit is worn. An interview, a date and a normal day at the office all call for a different style and level of formality. This also calls for a different level of carefree dishevelment that is portrayed in the outfit.

For a formal and proper occasion, like a black tie event, the outfit’s carefree nature should be in the subtle details. An informal patterned pocket square, a cuff link missing a loop, a tie or bow tie that is tied just slightly crooked, an un-buttoned surgeon’s cuff button, an informal bracelet or two worn with a watch, an antique watch with a leather band with a natural patina, a red carnation in the lapel (instead of a more formal corsage), unusual or brightly colored socks, or an older belt with natural subtle distressing. Implementing one or two of these elements will provide the outfit with subtle sprezzatura while still allowing the wearer to fit into the event without looking out of place, or badly dressed.

For less formal events and occasions the same techniques as above can be implemented, as well as more overt and bold sprezzatura. This is where personal style comes into play. For some a hap-hazard ironing job and a twisted tie are extremely disheveled, while for others these are just the standard implementation of daily sprezzatura. While one man can pull off red driving shoes with jeans and a white linen coat, another man would not feel comfortable and confident in the outfit. Some men feel that wearing jeans at all is wildly rebellious, while another man may need to wear tattered and distressed jeans to reach the same level of sartorial contradiction, considering his personal style. Sprezzatura is the broken and bended rules in a man’s outfit, idiosyncrasies of his personal fashion.

As you will see with the experts of sprezzatura, each man’s implementation is filtered through his own style lens. It is personalized and distinct to his own set of fashion rules and acceptable gray areas. Lapo Elkann and Luca Rubinacci, for example, have bolder and more extreme implementations of sprezzatura then Gianni Agnelli. Yet, all three of these style icons, have their own unique version of sprezzatura that would not work for another man. Rubinacci’s bright blue slacks do not work for Elkann or Agnelli. But then Agnelli’s watch worn over his cuff would look wrong on Rubinacci or Elkann’s wrist. Take a look at how these men implement sprezzatura, personalize it and make it their own. What is your sprezzatura technique? I would love to hear your personalization.

Sprezzatura Fashion -

Gianni Agnelli – the Godfather of modern sprezzatura. He dressed off kilter because he wanted to put people at ease, not because it was cool or "in fashion".

Lapo Elkann – the son of the Godfather of modern sprezzatura. He took sprezzatura to a whole new level.

Sid Mashburn – one of GQ's Ten Most Stylish Men in America. His style is a perfect mix of Southern charm and Italian sprezzatura.

Michael Bastian – classic lines and slick fashion with a subtle sprezzatura. He gives classic American style an edge.

Luca Rubinacci – no one does modern day Italian sprezzatura better. He reinvents style everytime he wears an outfit. A brilliant mix of extreme sprezzatura and Italian tailoring.

Style Profile - Luca Rubinacci

Luca Rubinacci - Heir to Rubinacci a fine menswear store with locations in Naples and London, Son of Mariano Rubinacci Taylor & Store Owner

Luca Rubinacci's style has been captured beautifully in these pictures by the Sartorialist, Scott Schuman. He is a champion of modern day Sprezzatura. He also embodies the elegance and confidence of Italian style, that is so often misinterpreted as arrogance. Rubinacci the son of a great Italian tailor shows skill in breaking the rules of fashion that growing up in the fashion industry can produce. He knows the rules he is breaking and conciously does so, even though it make look carefree. Rubinacci's outfits have a finished look that is anything but haphazard and are instead masterfully pieced together. Rubinacci's style is one of the first that drew me to love Sprezzatura and renew my love for fine clothes.

His rebellion of the rules is breathtaking. I am in awe of how he can have so many powerful, outfit stealing items worn at once, yet never seems to cross the line into a gaudy or try-hard outfit. This I feel comes from the personalization of his style. He owns the style and wears the clothes as if they are his second skin, not an outfit or uniform made to represent a person he is not. The clothes are not just an extension of his personality, but are embedded in his being. I would venture to guess he does not see his style choices as outlandish, as some would see them, but instead as necessary accessories to complete the outfit. Just as I would not leave the house without shoes, Rubinacci would not leave the house without unbuttoned surgeon cuffs, multiple bracelets and colorful clothing.

I also admire the way Rubinacci uses color during multiple different seasons. He elegantly is able to stay in the palate of the season while still being able to embrace and utilize color in all of his outfits. This is something I am especially taking note of heading into the fall and winter season. (Side note: the "in" color in fall and winter that you must have is purple. Beautiful deep purple will be available everywhere in the fall collection. It is really quite regal.)

Pure Sprezzatura, edgy, modern, perfectly tailored, classic with a twist. May we all own our style as well as Luca Rubinacci does.

Michael Bastian - Collection

Collection of nice Michael Bastian designed outfits. Some great style ideas done in a classic but modern way. This collection of outfits feels Sprezzatura without trying to imitate or outdo the Icons of the past.

Style Profile - Gianni Agnelli

Gianni Agnelli - 1921-2003 - Head of Fiat

Popularized and epitomized Italian Sprezzatura fashion. Sprezzatura meaning "Artful Dishevelment", was accomplished by Agnelli by wearing his watch over his shirt cuff, twisting his tie, wearing no shoes or interesting shoes (see the boots below) and wearing short ties. Agnelli also wore beautifully tailored Caraceni suits that fit him perfectly, matching those suits with the Sprezzatura elements.

Gianni Agnelli played with the subtle elements of his outfits, while following the rules on the basics of his outfit. Notice how his suits are made out of great materials and tailored to fit him perfectly. The suits are always appropriate, which allow him to wear a shorter than normal tie, or wear his watch over his cuff.

Agnelli played up the sprezzatura elements of his outfits to disconcert his rivals and to allow others to misjudge his competence. Agnelli capitalized on his competitions under estimation.

Gianni Agnelli's ability to dress with style and become a style icon should be studied. As Agnelli would want you to remember, keep it stylish but non-chalant, keep it classic, keep it personalized, keep it fun.

No Socks Kinda

A great look that you will see in all of the fashion magazines, blogs, runways and anywhere else in the city is the absence of socks. As Thom Browne says "ankles are the male cleavage". Wearing no socks with properly tailored shoes and a nice pair of well polished Oxfords is a great look, especially for summer, late spring and early fall. In Los Angeles and other fair weathered cities, it could almost be done year around.

One problem with the look is comfort. Its really uncomfortable to wear no socks with a nice pair of dress shoes, plus your feet sweat more and slip around in the shoe leaving blisters. But finally the answer is here: ankle socks. Goodhew makes a pair of the no show ankle socks as does Johnston & Murphy. The picture above I am wearing the no show sock (Johnston & Murphy), which gives me the comfort I need to deliver the look I want.

Oxfords vs. Blucher - The distinction is key

Every man needs a pair of Oxford's in his closet. They are the most versatile and dressy shoe a man can own. They are the go to Wedding shoe, Interview shoe, Funeral shoe and if you don't have a true formal shoe the only shoe in the closet appropriate for Black Tie events. They are classy, simple and go with any suit, can be worn with business casual and with jeans. (Pictured above is a Bruno Magli Cap Toe Oxford). But please do not confuse the Oxford with the Blucher.

The Blucher is a casual shoe. It was originally designed to be worn on weekends and is a setup down from the Oxford. It is less elegant and very limited in its use. It can only properly be worn with business casual. It is not be worn with a suit, on an interview, wedding or funeral. And it must never be worn to a black tie event. The worst thing about Bluchers and Oxfords is that most shoe companies mislabel Bluchers as Oxfords. Search for a Cap Toe Oxford online and your search results will be inundated with Bluchers. Do these companies, which make and sell shoes for a living even know the difference? Do they care?

The distinction is simple. Pictured below are two examples of Bluchers mascerading as Oxfords (Giorgio Brutini on top and Johnston & Murphy on the bottom). The difference is how the laces are connected to the vamp. The Vamp is main front portion of the shoe. On a Blucher the laces are placed directly on top of the vamp. On an Oxford the vamp covers the laces creating a throat line. (Here is a great diagraphm of the anatomy of an Oxford). By having the vamp cover the laces and the creation of a throat line, the Oxford has a more finished and polished look. It ends up with a more sophisticated look which allows the shoes to be more a functions that require best dressed attire.

Next time you go shopping beaware of difference and choose appropriately. Go for an Oxford and leave the Bluchers for everyone else.

Persol sunglasses

Like a lot of the best things in fashion, Persols are made in Italy. The
name comes from Italian "Per Sol", meaning "For the Sun". Persols are the
best made sunglasses in the world. They have the style you'd expect from a
classic and the amenities you'd except from a luxury brand. Persols also
focus on making glasses, so they are as focused on the utilitarian function
of the glasses as much as the fashionable look. Throw into the mix that
they have been worn by some of the coolest men in the world and you can
understand why they are legendary.

Steve McQueen wore the infamous blue lens Persol 714 in the Thomas Crown
affair. James Bond (Roger Craig) wore two different pairs of Persols in
Casino Royale (pictured are the Persol 2720). Persols have also been donned
by other celebrities: Jack Nicholson, Richard Gere, Paul Newman, Roberto
Rossellini, Cindy Crawford, Nicolas Cage, Pierce Brosnan, Brad Pitt,
Angelina Jolie, Christian Slater, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Heath Ledger, Al
Pacino, George Clooney and Adrien Brody.

Persols are recognized by the classic metal hinge which looks stylish as
well as adds support to the folding arms. Each arm is designed with two to
four lines on it. These lines are utilitarian in nature making the arms
bend to prevent damage when you sit on them, or your child squeezes them.
Steve McQueen's Persol 714s even have hinges built in the bridge and the
arms, so they can be carried easily in a pocket.

Let us here at DF know if you have any other favorite glasses or sunglasses
brands.