Thomas Pink Joins the Real World

I love a nicely pressed shirt and crisp suit more then most men, but I also enjoy a good over-washed oxford with frayed cuffs.  To dress appropriately for the modern era a man must be able to move between informal and formal clothing flawlessly.  A man wearing a suit everywhere looks like an out of touch dolt.  A man who dresses too casual conversely is rarely taken seriously.  A modern dignified male must dress appropriately for all situations.

That is why it is always nice to see a great brand like Thomas Pink recognize the need for quality informal clothing.  This is a trend that we have seen already with brands like Brooks Brothers and Gant and now with the formal clothing experts at Thomas Pink.

Their new line of aptly titled "Informal" shirts and sweaters are perfect mix between relaxed comfort and classic conservative style.  A mix that we are always looking for.  Classically modern.

Reader's Question: Tie Widths Abound & Other Questions

Mr. BigShot writes (and no I am not making up that name)....

“I came across your blog the other day and enjoy reading it. I saw a post where you explained the best tie width is 3 inches. Do you know where I can find 3 inch ties? Most stores carry ties in 3.5-4 inch width, so it's a bit hard to find them.


I also have a couple more questions on items I need to locate. I'm looking for a pair of flat-front mid-grey (think grey heather or charcoal heather colors) for under $150, preferably under $100. Do you know where I can find these? I'm also looking for oxford collar button down shirts with shoulder pleats instead of the box pleat, which I find unnecessary. I have an athletic, lean body type, so a box pleat only adds extra fabric and puffiness to the back, which I don't need. Know where I can find one for under $75? Thanks.”

Thankfully, more and more retailers are adding the “slimmer” ties to there selection, at some stores they are not even categorized as slim ties and are just the only tie width sold.  Like with jeans, stay away from the skinny and gravitate toward the slim.  I certainly have my favorite places to sell ties around 3” they are in two different categories:

The High End -

Thomas Pink makes great dress shirts and ties.  Some of the best color combinations made, this also applies for their slim ties.  They sell slim ties for around $100 a tie and come in a wide range of colors and patterns.  This is certainly suggested for those that perfer bold colors.  Shown here is a more classic blue tie with white & red stripe, quite an elegant tie.

Brooks Brothers is known for classic, conservative style.  One of the original makers of the sack cut suit, they rarely make any deviations from the classic and most conservative style.  The fact that they are selling slim ties, is not an inditement on them, but instead an approval of the rebirth that 3" ties are having, thankfully.  Brooks Brothers sells their slim ties for $75 to $90 a tie and they come in a variety of classic looks and patterns.

Mid to Low Range Cost -

Starting at the top and working our way down.  J. Crew only sells ties in the 3" range.  They have a wide range of silk, wool and cotton ties in a variety of modern and classic patterns and colors.  It is a great way to experiment with patterns and colors without completely jumping the shark with an odd pattern.  J. Crew also is great for the traditional, classic, collegiate look, my personal favorite.  A look that J. Crew does as well as anyone, except for maybe Brooks Brothers.  J. Crew ties sell from $60 to $40 at full price and have quite good deals in store when ties go on sale.  I have picked up more than one tie at J. Crew for under $20, just need to keep your eyes open.

Most men's retailers now sell slim ties, Nordstroms, Bloomingdales and even Macy's.  The latter have a variety of ties from different manufacturers: Ben Sherman, Alfani & Tallia.  The quality of the designs varies store to store and region to region depending on the buyer, but they usually have a good deal on the ties ranging from: $50 to $25.  I perfer the Ben Sherman or Tallia designs, but Alfani can have some good ties for evening events.  Stick to other brands like Pink, Brooks and J. Crew if you are buying the ties for work.

Grey Slacks -

As for the mid-grey slacks if you live near NYC, I suggest you try Uniqlo.  They have great prices and the cut is slim and slender, perfect for a slender fellow, like yourself.  The Uniqlo wool slacks are typically under a $100.

Another option is Banana Republic.  They have well made slacks in a wide range of classic colors.  I have a pair of flannel mid-grey heathered slacks that I picked up at Banana Republic for about $100.  Make sure you stick to the "Tailored" fit pants, as they are slimmer and will look better on you.  The "Modern" fit are slightly bigger throughout the leg.  Banana Republic sells their wool pants from: $180 to $40, depending on sales.  Good news, BR usually have the best sales on pants of any retailer.

The last recommendation is J. Crew.  They have the "Ludlow" cut pants, a slim, modern cut, which would look great with your frame.  The Ludlow pants are from $150 to $120 and rarely come down much in price.  They also do not typically come in a heathered look, but they will fit you well.  It is at least worth taking a look.

Oxford Shirts -

For the Oxford shirt, I recommend finding a bespoke tailor near you and having them make 3 to 6 shirts to your body type and with the pleats and buttons and collars to your preference.  Once you go bespoke with shirts it is hard to go back.  They are made especially for you to you liking and will make you look the best you can possibly look.  The slight increase in cost is completely worth the statisfaction you will have with the shirts.  This is an investment that will change your opinion on the way ready made shirts are sold.

How to Wear a Skinny Tie

The appropriate width for a necktie is exactly 3 inches at its widest point. Some current trends beg for a tie of less width, which ends up looking hipster and try hard.  Some trends, notably a few Saville Row tailors want a tie of considerably more width.  Unfortunately, most retail stores sell ties that are about 4 inches in width, which looks dated and draws flashbacks of the heavy shoulder padded suits of the 80s and 90s.

Due to the trendy and inherently unstylish extremes in tie width, that is why the 3 inch middle ground is the best.  A 3 inch tie is actually quite conservative and classic, a tie width common for decades until the 1970s ruined more than just rock n roll.  The 3 inch tie is the neutral territory that will grow in popularity and commonality, especially as the 2 inch width becomes more widespread.

The three inch ties are more common with each passing day.  My favorite locations to buy the "slimmer" ties are:

J. Crew - ties sold are exactly 3 inches in width (for the most part).  They are very classically styled with great color combinations.  The Italian silk knit tie the width shrinks to 2 1/2 inches, so wear it caustiously.

Pink - Thomas Pink has a nice selection of slim ties all for $100 a piece.  The colors are typically either pinks or purples but they are nice.

Brooks Brothers - the conservative retailer has moved 3 inch ties into the regular rotation, albeit under the "slim" tie section.  These are beautiful ties, including a lot of rep stripes and even some madder patterns (like the one pictured above).  They also have a nice glen check that looks very sharp.

Ben Sherman - has a line of ties around the 3 inch width.  They come in aggressive colors and patterns and sold widely at Macys.  Some are more conservative than others, but it always good to have a few daring ties in the collection to spice up the white shirt and gray suit look.

Calvin Klein - a small but nice selection of skinny ties.  They are simple designs but usually have a little flair to keep them visually engaging.

Burberry - also makes some very conservative looking slim ties.  I think they may be a little over priced for the quality, personally opting for bespoke first, but they are very nice.  Especially the classic Burberry check.

If you want a timeless style go with the 3 inch width.  It will always be essential to a classic look and will never look as trendy as super skinny ties or the wide ties en vogue with the anchors at ESPN.