Bespoke shirts have arrived, kinda

The bespoke shirts I ordered from Michael Sahi are finally in my possession again. The shirts were  actually finished back in early December, but I placed them under the tree, rather than wear them  immediately as was my initial impulse. Since the shirts were my main Christmas present along with a surprise bookcase, they tantalizing sat under the tree for a month.

I acted surprised when I opened them up and immediately took them to be laundered. They are freshly pressed and ready to be worn. Just in time, as I have a client visit this week which will require a suit and tie, perfect occasion for shirts that are meant to be donned for such events.

The shirts are a combination of button down collars, regular spread collars and full spread collars. They all have great bespoke details like my initials, MTP, embroidered on the sleeves in a bold  complimenting color and mother of pearl buttons. I choose barrel cuffs for versatility as these shirts are meant to be worn with and without a jacket and for everyday use.  French cuffs are saved for shirt only worn with ties and a suit. All of the shirts fit perfectly, no blousing at the waist and no extra fabric on the sleeves. I had the arm holes raised to give them a slimmer more modern fit.

Finally, I have my bespoke shirts and I feel dapper because of it.

Reader's Question: Tie Widths Abound & Other Questions

Mr. BigShot writes (and no I am not making up that name)....

“I came across your blog the other day and enjoy reading it. I saw a post where you explained the best tie width is 3 inches. Do you know where I can find 3 inch ties? Most stores carry ties in 3.5-4 inch width, so it's a bit hard to find them.


I also have a couple more questions on items I need to locate. I'm looking for a pair of flat-front mid-grey (think grey heather or charcoal heather colors) for under $150, preferably under $100. Do you know where I can find these? I'm also looking for oxford collar button down shirts with shoulder pleats instead of the box pleat, which I find unnecessary. I have an athletic, lean body type, so a box pleat only adds extra fabric and puffiness to the back, which I don't need. Know where I can find one for under $75? Thanks.”

Thankfully, more and more retailers are adding the “slimmer” ties to there selection, at some stores they are not even categorized as slim ties and are just the only tie width sold.  Like with jeans, stay away from the skinny and gravitate toward the slim.  I certainly have my favorite places to sell ties around 3” they are in two different categories:

The High End -

Thomas Pink makes great dress shirts and ties.  Some of the best color combinations made, this also applies for their slim ties.  They sell slim ties for around $100 a tie and come in a wide range of colors and patterns.  This is certainly suggested for those that perfer bold colors.  Shown here is a more classic blue tie with white & red stripe, quite an elegant tie.

Brooks Brothers is known for classic, conservative style.  One of the original makers of the sack cut suit, they rarely make any deviations from the classic and most conservative style.  The fact that they are selling slim ties, is not an inditement on them, but instead an approval of the rebirth that 3" ties are having, thankfully.  Brooks Brothers sells their slim ties for $75 to $90 a tie and they come in a variety of classic looks and patterns.

Mid to Low Range Cost -

Starting at the top and working our way down.  J. Crew only sells ties in the 3" range.  They have a wide range of silk, wool and cotton ties in a variety of modern and classic patterns and colors.  It is a great way to experiment with patterns and colors without completely jumping the shark with an odd pattern.  J. Crew also is great for the traditional, classic, collegiate look, my personal favorite.  A look that J. Crew does as well as anyone, except for maybe Brooks Brothers.  J. Crew ties sell from $60 to $40 at full price and have quite good deals in store when ties go on sale.  I have picked up more than one tie at J. Crew for under $20, just need to keep your eyes open.

Most men's retailers now sell slim ties, Nordstroms, Bloomingdales and even Macy's.  The latter have a variety of ties from different manufacturers: Ben Sherman, Alfani & Tallia.  The quality of the designs varies store to store and region to region depending on the buyer, but they usually have a good deal on the ties ranging from: $50 to $25.  I perfer the Ben Sherman or Tallia designs, but Alfani can have some good ties for evening events.  Stick to other brands like Pink, Brooks and J. Crew if you are buying the ties for work.

Grey Slacks -

As for the mid-grey slacks if you live near NYC, I suggest you try Uniqlo.  They have great prices and the cut is slim and slender, perfect for a slender fellow, like yourself.  The Uniqlo wool slacks are typically under a $100.

Another option is Banana Republic.  They have well made slacks in a wide range of classic colors.  I have a pair of flannel mid-grey heathered slacks that I picked up at Banana Republic for about $100.  Make sure you stick to the "Tailored" fit pants, as they are slimmer and will look better on you.  The "Modern" fit are slightly bigger throughout the leg.  Banana Republic sells their wool pants from: $180 to $40, depending on sales.  Good news, BR usually have the best sales on pants of any retailer.

The last recommendation is J. Crew.  They have the "Ludlow" cut pants, a slim, modern cut, which would look great with your frame.  The Ludlow pants are from $150 to $120 and rarely come down much in price.  They also do not typically come in a heathered look, but they will fit you well.  It is at least worth taking a look.

Oxford Shirts -

For the Oxford shirt, I recommend finding a bespoke tailor near you and having them make 3 to 6 shirts to your body type and with the pleats and buttons and collars to your preference.  Once you go bespoke with shirts it is hard to go back.  They are made especially for you to you liking and will make you look the best you can possibly look.  The slight increase in cost is completely worth the statisfaction you will have with the shirts.  This is an investment that will change your opinion on the way ready made shirts are sold.

Traditional Design in a Unique Fabric

While at Michael's Custom Clothiers this weekend I stumbled across a beautiful fabric made out of Worsted Wool (50%), Linen (30%) & Silk (20%).  The fabric came in a multitude of designs and colors but my favorite were the houndstooth and herringbone.  They were both tan and navy a striking combination.  Perfect for warm weather, or year around in a warm weather city like Los Angeles.

Personally, I would opt for the herringbone design to be made into a suit and the houndstooth to be made into an odd jacket.  Either option would be quite fun to be seen made into a finished piece.  The fabrics were part of a Savile Row "Island" collection.  Neither textile would be seen in on the rack made to wear clothing.  Yet another reason to get your suits & jackets made bespoke, selection.

Bespoke Shirts

Yesterday I had the fortune to go to Michael's Custom Clothiers and order six shirts for my wardrobe.  These six shirts were at a very reasonable price of 440 which comes to $73 per shirt.  These shirts are custom made and will fit my body type.  They are all meant to be worn for business and with ties, but can be worn without a tie.

I have a thick neck, 17 inches, but like my shirts to be slim fitting in the arms, chest and waist.  The medium size store bought shirts that I prefer, typically come with a 15 inch neck, much to small for me to button and wear a tie with.  The shirts big enough for my neck look like moo moos on my frame.  This means that I must purchase custom shirts to achieve the desired look.

I went in and picked the fabrics and the design elements for these shirts.  They are all going to barrel cuff and most with a medium spread collar.  One, in a light blue oxford cloth, has a button down collar.  Another in a white and subtle light mint stripe, pictured, will have a spread collar.  I also picked up some striped and checked shirts as well, including a banker stripe, also shown.

These shirts will be finished in the next month or two.  When they are finished I will for sure show off the finished product on here.  With bespoke shirts you can also choose the type of collar, cuff, monogram and pocket or no pocket, as well as any other customization you prefer.  Custom shirts are certainly a great option for any man with unusual dimensions that ready to wear shirts can not accommodate.  Try some out, they can help out your wardrobe too.

Bespoke Suits Everyone Can Afford

Since we all know that suits are all about fit, the best way to achieve a perfect fit is by ordering a hand made suit.  Bespoke suits can fit all types of bodies and will make you look better than even the most expensive designer suits.  In most cases considerably better, since almost no body types fit designer suits.

The one problem with bespoke suits is the cost.  Unfortunately, most men can not afford to only have bespoke suits in their wardrobe.  Even though a few bespoke suits will go much farther than a wardrobe of ill fitting off the rack suits.  Even man needs bespoke.

Well finally there is an opportunity for every man to obtain bespoke.  Indochino, offer bespoke suits tailored and made in China for $250 to $500.  They offer bespoke suits, blazers, slacks, shirts and ties.  They even have bespoke overcoats, which are incredibly attractive.  Each suit comes in limited quantities, which probably holds down costs.  The suits range from the conservative to the fashion forward.  They even make bespoke tuxedos, which is a much better option than renting, in every possible way.

The suits are all slimmer European cut.  They look to be Drape cut suits, but it is hard to tell, most likely they are a slim fit Continental cut made to look like a Drape cut.  The pants are also slim.  You just need to provide various measurements to Indochino and they will make it to your specifications.  I recommend going to a local tailor and having them measure you for a minimal cost, so that you know the measurements have been done correctly.

I have not tried making a suit with Indochino yet, but I certainly would like to try it out.  Let me know if you use the service, so we can report on the success or possible failure.

Happy suiting.

Suit: Three Kinds - Drape, Continental & Sack

Expertly tailored suits come in two general styles or cuts: Drape or Continental. There is also a third style, but it is not nearly as attractive or well tailored, the Sack.

Drape Cut Suit -
Drape is my favorite suit cut. It was developed by the English, but have expanded from there. It has soft, light or unpadded “natural” shoulders, side vents an hourglass shape and a high waist on the jacket. It can be single or double breasted. The term Drape refers to how the suit is built. The structure of a Drape jacket comes from layers of fabric on the chest and back that drape down from the shoulders. These layers of cloth keep the jacket full in the chest, but allow for freedom of movement and a soft, supple look. This jacket will follow the body and move with the individual. Some feel that construction of a Drape cut suit requires the most skill as a tailor. Drape suits were worn by Fred Astaire and Duke of Windsor and others with impeccable taste.

Continental Cut Suit -
Continental cut is originated in Italy by Roman tailors, but have expanded from there. It has its history in military uniforms and is identified by it very structured design. Continental suits have structured and defined shoulders, typically high & more squared shoulders. A true Continental cut will be close-fitting with a defined waist line. The skirt of the jacket can either flare out or hang straight. The suit has a solid and structured look and in a classic model is ventless. It will have very clean lines in the chest and back, but will limit the range of motion. This suit was popularized on wall street and “serious” business and is often called a power business suit. Donald Trump will only wear a Continental cut suit as will other power brokers of business.

Sack Cut Suit -
Sack cut suits are least attractive of all the suits. They are shapeless and are common for on the rack suits. The jackets flow straight down from the shoulders in a shapeless sack like shape. The body of the suit is roomy and typically has a single center vent. Classic sack suits are three-button suits, but now they are made in many different variations. The sack suit was originated in America by large retailers who needed to make a suit that fit everyone. J. Press is one of the most high profile makers of the Sack cut suit. The modern version of the sack suit is now a little more tailored, but it is still designed to fit the masses. It is the least flattering of the three suits, since it is designed to fit everyone it in turn fits no one.

Style Profile - Gianni Agnelli

Gianni Agnelli - 1921-2003 - Head of Fiat

Popularized and epitomized Italian Sprezzatura fashion. Sprezzatura meaning "Artful Dishevelment", was accomplished by Agnelli by wearing his watch over his shirt cuff, twisting his tie, wearing no shoes or interesting shoes (see the boots below) and wearing short ties. Agnelli also wore beautifully tailored Caraceni suits that fit him perfectly, matching those suits with the Sprezzatura elements.

Gianni Agnelli played with the subtle elements of his outfits, while following the rules on the basics of his outfit. Notice how his suits are made out of great materials and tailored to fit him perfectly. The suits are always appropriate, which allow him to wear a shorter than normal tie, or wear his watch over his cuff.

Agnelli played up the sprezzatura elements of his outfits to disconcert his rivals and to allow others to misjudge his competence. Agnelli capitalized on his competitions under estimation.

Gianni Agnelli's ability to dress with style and become a style icon should be studied. As Agnelli would want you to remember, keep it stylish but non-chalant, keep it classic, keep it personalized, keep it fun.