Question on Trenchcoats

Reader's Question - Michael, NYC:

"I recently came across your blog (awesome) when searching for pictures of the Theory Herringbone Trench Coat you featured on August 17th. I picked it up yesterday as a secondary winter coat (my primary winter coat is a navy Burberry cashmere overcoat - it gets COLD in NY!).

How do you suggest I wear the belt? I tied the belt, but the fabric is quite stiff and the belt wouldn't hold. I am also concerned that the belt will look worn out after tying it so much. Do you suggest that I belt it instead (quite formal) or tie it in the back? The jury seems to be out on this one..."

Thanks for the thoughtful question, Michael. You should be commended on your taste in overcoats. I always feel that every man should own at least a Navy overcoat and the secondary overcoat should be Gray or Camel colored. Those colors will go with most every suit in the closet and will look sharp for any occasion. The herringbone adds visual interest to the gray overcoat, helping to stand out in the dreary weather.  Cashmere and Camelhair are the best fabrics for overcoats; warm durable and fashionable.

Personally, I would opt for the belt to be tied, as shown in the picture.  The belt with time will become less stiff and will hold to the knot better.  Damaging the belt should not be a concern, the high quality of the fabric and manufacturing will help hold it together. For more formal events you can use it as a belt, but I would still opt for tying it in every occasion as it is more sprezzatura and care free (a state that should be constantly strived for by every well dressed man).  Please, Michael, do not tie the belt behind you. No trench coat or overcoat should ever have the belt tied in the back. This removes the sartorial benefit that a secured belt adds to the overall look.

One additional note in wearing this and most all other overcoats. Please, for the love of all that is stylish, turn up the collar. Overcoats, trenchcoats and peacoats should have popped collars. In every case, wear it with the collar up, but please always wear your polos with the collars down. 

With those rules followed, you should be able to enjoy the New York weather in warmth and style.

New York City Trip Recap - Part 2

After leaving the Liquor Store I wandered the streets of New York, enjoying the beautiful fall day and looking for a unique and special find.  I wanted more, I wanted one last store to enjoy immensely.  A store that can only be found in New York and would leave me with a feeling that I had a memorable New York City experience, a final note on an amazing day of enjoyable shopping.  I truly am a nerd for shopping, I know, you don’t have to remind me.  But if you want to you can email me at: mdignified@gmail.com.

Just then I wandered across an interesting looking store, Cockpit.  I poked my head in and found exactly what I was looking for, a great find hidden in the maze of city streets.  Cockpit has some of the nicest staff I have seen at a store.  They were competent, knowledgeable, conversational and yet knew the right moment to leave me alone right before I would have had an urge to injure them.  The store looks like a Military service hang out on an American base in Vietnam mixed with a gentleman’s parlor mixed with a retail store in NYC.

Cockpit makes their own military inspired clothes as well as actual military replicas.  The store also has a great selection of well made Over coats, Top coats, leather jackets, boots, leather shoes and casual wear.  They had some very interesting and well cut henleys, sweaters and military inspired shirts.  Cockpit also had unique vintage pieces from previous Wars like the Japanese Kamikaze pilot flight suit and the 1941 American solider Army helmet.  Apparently Cockpit was the company that made the brown leather Bomber jacket Tom Cruise wore in Top Gun.  Next month they are re-releasing the jacket, which will be sold in store.

My favorite piece was a wool herringbone top coat that was inspired by German officers.  The coat was modernized with a trimmer, sleeker, tailored fit.  It has black velvet accents on the collar and sleeve cuffs that can be worn two different ways: rolled up to reveal black velvet or undone for a more simple look.  It is double breasted and garnished with simple black metal buttons.  The details on the coat are fantastic, including the beautiful lining.  The coat is an absolute statement piece.  It can be worn dressed up or dressed down, but it will always get you noticed.  Sometimes, that is just what a man needs.

Next time in town, I am certainly going to visit Cockpit again.

Fall Essentials - Tweed Herringbone Trench Coat

Theory has made a tweed herringbone trench coat for this season. This is a perfect jacket for anyone living with severe weather and needs a great alternative to a cashmere overcoat. I would certainly think about picking it up if our weather was actually cold (Los Angeles has great weather, but that certainly limits the clothing options). What is great about this jacket is that it would easily go with any fall suit in the typical fall colors: navy, heather gray, black, olive and brown. Theory has done it again, a fashionable, practical, yet unique piece. This piece is available at Bloomingdales for only $795, for a jacket of this quality that is quite a good price.

Fall Essentials - Tweed Herringbone Jacket

My favorite odd jacket for this or any fall/winter season is a gray tweed herringbone jacket. I have had one for about 2 or 3 years now and love when the weather turns cold enough to wear it. It is the perfect jacket for jeans, chinos or accessory for your normal work slacks (black, navy or heather gray work best from a color stand point).

The jacket is sophisticated casual. It has a very English countryman heritage so it has the old elegant sophistication that comes with such a heritage. Historically this jacket would have leather elbow patches for hunters. Hence the jackets heritage is casual, due to this it is typically made only as an odd jacket. (But I would highly encourage making a slim fit tweed herringbone suit with bit 2 inch cuffs on the pants, but that is my personal style and not something everyone can pull off.)

This season stick with a beautifully tailored slim fit gray herringbone tweed. Rugby (by Ralph Lauren) has my favorite version of the jacket this season (top picture). Rugby makes a very casual, cool and aggressive version of the jacket with details like: stitched patches instead of the English style leather elbow patches, colored lining under the lapels and a hidden stitched skull and crossbones under the left lapel. Fashion is often in the subtle details and Rugby nailed it with this version of the jacket ($350 or so).

Theory & JCrew both have more traditional but modern versions of the jacket, so you will not have to worry about looking like your Grandpa, but you can still look hip on your date (JCrew & Theory pictured above: JCrew has the tie). Uniqlo also has a version of the jacket that will be coming out in the next month or so, this might be the best financial option as long as you live in New York or have a friend in New York who can ship it to you (Uniqlo only has one store in the US, in New York, and they don't take online orders).

Rock the tweed herringbone as one of your go-to-jackets, this fall. Leave the leather jacket at home and instead rock the herringbone, it will keep you just as warm and you will have classic and sophisticated alternative to leather. The ladies & the fashionably aware men will appreciate your sartorial decision.

Multiple Patterns - shirt and tie

Wearing multiple patterns at the same time is all about wearing complimentary patterns and colors. A blue striped shirt with a blue polka dot tie is attractive since the blues in both patterns are complimentary and the patterns don't clash. Two competing plaid patterns would fight against each other and be distracting to the eye.

Keep it simple. Focus wearing a simple patterned shirt: striped, windowpane, tattersall or gingham check all can be basic patterns and easy to pair with a tie.

The tie should have a simple pattern. A polka dot tie, a rep tie, a horizontally striped tie, a simple plaid or a minimalist paisley tie will work best. Most of the tie should have a solid color that is in the same hue as the shirt. The other color or colors in the tie should be in the same family of colors or a complimentary color.

Lastly, wear a plain suit with clean lines. Stay away from the herringbone, striped or windowpane check for the suit. A simple suit will add balance to the outfit and give the eyes a safe place to rest. The simple suit will act as an anchor keeping the outfit grounded.

Start with something safe before branching out to the more daring. Remember you must be comfortable and confident to be able to make the outfit work.