Question on Trenchcoats

Reader's Question - Michael, NYC:

"I recently came across your blog (awesome) when searching for pictures of the Theory Herringbone Trench Coat you featured on August 17th. I picked it up yesterday as a secondary winter coat (my primary winter coat is a navy Burberry cashmere overcoat - it gets COLD in NY!).

How do you suggest I wear the belt? I tied the belt, but the fabric is quite stiff and the belt wouldn't hold. I am also concerned that the belt will look worn out after tying it so much. Do you suggest that I belt it instead (quite formal) or tie it in the back? The jury seems to be out on this one..."

Thanks for the thoughtful question, Michael. You should be commended on your taste in overcoats. I always feel that every man should own at least a Navy overcoat and the secondary overcoat should be Gray or Camel colored. Those colors will go with most every suit in the closet and will look sharp for any occasion. The herringbone adds visual interest to the gray overcoat, helping to stand out in the dreary weather.  Cashmere and Camelhair are the best fabrics for overcoats; warm durable and fashionable.

Personally, I would opt for the belt to be tied, as shown in the picture.  The belt with time will become less stiff and will hold to the knot better.  Damaging the belt should not be a concern, the high quality of the fabric and manufacturing will help hold it together. For more formal events you can use it as a belt, but I would still opt for tying it in every occasion as it is more sprezzatura and care free (a state that should be constantly strived for by every well dressed man).  Please, Michael, do not tie the belt behind you. No trench coat or overcoat should ever have the belt tied in the back. This removes the sartorial benefit that a secured belt adds to the overall look.

One additional note in wearing this and most all other overcoats. Please, for the love of all that is stylish, turn up the collar. Overcoats, trenchcoats and peacoats should have popped collars. In every case, wear it with the collar up, but please always wear your polos with the collars down. 

With those rules followed, you should be able to enjoy the New York weather in warmth and style.

Fall Essentials - Tweed Herringbone Trench Coat

Theory has made a tweed herringbone trench coat for this season. This is a perfect jacket for anyone living with severe weather and needs a great alternative to a cashmere overcoat. I would certainly think about picking it up if our weather was actually cold (Los Angeles has great weather, but that certainly limits the clothing options). What is great about this jacket is that it would easily go with any fall suit in the typical fall colors: navy, heather gray, black, olive and brown. Theory has done it again, a fashionable, practical, yet unique piece. This piece is available at Bloomingdales for only $795, for a jacket of this quality that is quite a good price.

Fall Essentials - Tweed Herringbone Jacket

My favorite odd jacket for this or any fall/winter season is a gray tweed herringbone jacket. I have had one for about 2 or 3 years now and love when the weather turns cold enough to wear it. It is the perfect jacket for jeans, chinos or accessory for your normal work slacks (black, navy or heather gray work best from a color stand point).

The jacket is sophisticated casual. It has a very English countryman heritage so it has the old elegant sophistication that comes with such a heritage. Historically this jacket would have leather elbow patches for hunters. Hence the jackets heritage is casual, due to this it is typically made only as an odd jacket. (But I would highly encourage making a slim fit tweed herringbone suit with bit 2 inch cuffs on the pants, but that is my personal style and not something everyone can pull off.)

This season stick with a beautifully tailored slim fit gray herringbone tweed. Rugby (by Ralph Lauren) has my favorite version of the jacket this season (top picture). Rugby makes a very casual, cool and aggressive version of the jacket with details like: stitched patches instead of the English style leather elbow patches, colored lining under the lapels and a hidden stitched skull and crossbones under the left lapel. Fashion is often in the subtle details and Rugby nailed it with this version of the jacket ($350 or so).

Theory & JCrew both have more traditional but modern versions of the jacket, so you will not have to worry about looking like your Grandpa, but you can still look hip on your date (JCrew & Theory pictured above: JCrew has the tie). Uniqlo also has a version of the jacket that will be coming out in the next month or so, this might be the best financial option as long as you live in New York or have a friend in New York who can ship it to you (Uniqlo only has one store in the US, in New York, and they don't take online orders).

Rock the tweed herringbone as one of your go-to-jackets, this fall. Leave the leather jacket at home and instead rock the herringbone, it will keep you just as warm and you will have classic and sophisticated alternative to leather. The ladies & the fashionably aware men will appreciate your sartorial decision.