Reader's Question: New Job, New Wardrobe

We have another question, this one from Pete in San Diego. To send your questions email us at: mdignified@gmail.com. Or find us on Facebook or Twitter.

Do you have any suggestions on how a young man newly interested in updating his wardrobe, after college and now starting to job search should begin?

For this exercise let's assume this new college graduate has a typical college wardrobe, which is anything but appropriate for the workforce. This will mean he needs to start from scratch and focus on classic essentials that will last him a few years, or at least until he starts making enough money to buy some real clothes. Over the next week we will explore the essentials to a versatile work wardrobe.

To start, the key is about the fit. Inexpensive clothes that fit well look much better than expensive clothes that aren't the right size. So when buying the first round of clothes, it is better to focus on the fit then the brand. Then upgrading the quality and the brands in the closet as time progresses. The only exception is shoes, which we will discuss later in this essay. The essentials are classic, conservative and safe, as the last thing a newly hired professional wants to come across is anything but. Beyond reputation building a classic and conservative wardrobe will ensure the largest amount of use out of the items. By sticking to classics, the items can be worn again and again without raising an eyebrow or a snide remark. Whereas a young professional breaking out a brown glenn check suit with purple over check is not only seen as unprofessional but wearing that suit more than twice a year will probably roll some eyes.

The items that are needed can be bought for around $3K to $5K, depending on brands and how much is in the closet already. As time goes, additional items can be added yearly or every few months to keep the wardrobe fresh and expand the options. What every man needs is:

• Suits - a minimum of 2 suits, maximum of six
• Dress shirts - classic shirts between 8 and 12
• Dress shoes - one brown & one black
• Belt - one reversible belt
• Sport Coat - at least one universal odd jacket
• Wool slacks - a minimum of four wool slacks
• Sweaters - wool sweaters, a minimum of two
• Chinos - 2 pairs of clean dress chinos
• Ties - at least six to ten ties in classic patterns & width
• Watch - one classic watch
• Overcoat & Raincoat - one of each
• Accessories - Pocket squares, Tie Clips, Socks, etc.

With this list in mind we will further explore each item in detail over the next three weeks.

Reader's Question: Khaki Suit

As always we are more than happy to answer Reader’s Questions. This one is from John from in Seattle.

MoDig:

Alright, I'm getting married in a sweet Banana Republic khaki suit. I'm thinking cordovan bicycle toe oxfords, sorta like the To Boot New York 'Randall' Split Toe Oxford at Nordstroms (I don't think it's in cordovan, though).

Am I being a bit too picky or should I just settle for a nice venetian loafer (Cole Haan immediately leaps to mind)?

Thanks! Your blog is excellent and thanks for bringing style to the masses without the pomposity.

John

First off John, congratulations on your impending nuptials it sounds like you will look very dapper for the event. A khaki suit in the summer/spring can be magnificent and quite a statement. It is a nice choice for a more modern wedding.

You discussed the Split Toe Oxford from To Boot, but this shoe is too dark. It is a shoe meant for dark suits, not the light khaki suit you will be wearing. The dark color of the shoes will make the outfit look bottom heavy. Stick to a lighter color like a light brown suede or a tan/walnut. You want the shoes to compliment the khaki suit, not clash with it.

You will also need a shoe that can transition easily between outdoor and indoor and is more casual, in line with the suit. We feel that the loafers are too casual for your wedding, while the theme is certainly more casual than a black tie affair; you are not getting married barefoot on a beach. Wear some shoes that respect the occasion and ditch the loafer idea.

Since you are in Seattle and the weather can change in a moment, it is best to stay away from the quick to mind choice of white bucks. While they are perfect for sunny days where cotton suits are worn, if it is a rainy day or overcast day, the shoes will not look right. Save them for the sunny South Carolina wedding.

With that said, where does that leave us? A few choices come to mind:

Johnston & Murphy make a great saddle shoe. Tan suede with brogue leather, it is a perfect spring/summer shoe. It is casual yet sophisticated and it will look great with the khaki suit. The shoe sells for around $130 and can be worn all day and night without offending anyone.

A nice walnut colored wingtip will work great. This shoe will hold up better on a rainy day and will add some fantastic character to your soles. Keep the shoe a light brown and the outfit can pop with such a terrific complimentary shoe. This Allen Edmonds MacAllister shoe is as classic as they come. It has the shape and fit to work great with a suit but is not stuffy. This shoe or one like it will go for around $250.

As we have discussed previously, J Crew and Alden teamed up to make a tobacco colored wingtip. It is a modern color and shape, extra light brown with rounded toes and blucher design. This is a magnificent shoe and will last until you’re fourth kid graduates high school (assuming you end up having four kids). Basically, this shoe will last for 20+ years, if not longer. Your wedding day might be a nice memory every time you slip the shoe on. The Alden shoes sell for around $450.

Lastly, you can go with a tan buck, a compromise between the white buck look but with coloring that will work better on an overcast day. We would still prefer one of the wingtips, but can appreciate the elegance and simplicity of a pair of bucks. Bucks are a common shoe this Spring, sold by Allen Edmonds, Johnston & Murphy, J Crew and many others. Bucks will typically set you back $150 or so.

Whatever the choice, Modern Dignified would like to thank you for your readership and kind words, but most importantly, we would like to wish you a wonderful and fruitful marriage. You are braver than we are.

If anyone else wants our opinion, for whatever it is worth, email us at: mdignified@gmail.com. You can also become a fan of Modern Dignified on Facebook and follow Modern Dignified on Twitter @ModernDignified.

Question on Trenchcoats

Reader's Question - Michael, NYC:

"I recently came across your blog (awesome) when searching for pictures of the Theory Herringbone Trench Coat you featured on August 17th. I picked it up yesterday as a secondary winter coat (my primary winter coat is a navy Burberry cashmere overcoat - it gets COLD in NY!).

How do you suggest I wear the belt? I tied the belt, but the fabric is quite stiff and the belt wouldn't hold. I am also concerned that the belt will look worn out after tying it so much. Do you suggest that I belt it instead (quite formal) or tie it in the back? The jury seems to be out on this one..."

Thanks for the thoughtful question, Michael. You should be commended on your taste in overcoats. I always feel that every man should own at least a Navy overcoat and the secondary overcoat should be Gray or Camel colored. Those colors will go with most every suit in the closet and will look sharp for any occasion. The herringbone adds visual interest to the gray overcoat, helping to stand out in the dreary weather.  Cashmere and Camelhair are the best fabrics for overcoats; warm durable and fashionable.

Personally, I would opt for the belt to be tied, as shown in the picture.  The belt with time will become less stiff and will hold to the knot better.  Damaging the belt should not be a concern, the high quality of the fabric and manufacturing will help hold it together. For more formal events you can use it as a belt, but I would still opt for tying it in every occasion as it is more sprezzatura and care free (a state that should be constantly strived for by every well dressed man).  Please, Michael, do not tie the belt behind you. No trench coat or overcoat should ever have the belt tied in the back. This removes the sartorial benefit that a secured belt adds to the overall look.

One additional note in wearing this and most all other overcoats. Please, for the love of all that is stylish, turn up the collar. Overcoats, trenchcoats and peacoats should have popped collars. In every case, wear it with the collar up, but please always wear your polos with the collars down. 

With those rules followed, you should be able to enjoy the New York weather in warmth and style.

Email Me

Do you have questions on fashion, style and the Modern Dignified lifestyle?  Then email me: mdignified@gmail.com 

I look forward to your questions and answering them all.