Madras can be good

 
Madras typically is ugly and vibrant and obnoxious for no good reason.  But sometimes madras steps away from its cliched preppy roots, gets a modernization and becomes a great look.  Much like the Gitman Vintage 80s sport shirts we featured recently, the new J Crew madras shirts hit an old classic out of the park.  A new modern cut, bright colors, bigger pattern and nothing ugly about it.  We particularly like the dark colors mixed with red, cream and vibrant aqua in the "baltic" version, but the green one can look great with the right complexion.

Thankfully, J Crew breathed new life into the madras.  Just don't wear our pops old madras shirts, those still need updating.

Morris Stockholm: Fall 2009 Collection

Morris Stockholm called their Fall 2009 collection, Preppy Autumn.  An apropos name for the feel and look of the Fall collection.  I have become a fan of the Morris Stockholm look.  A look that is preppy, sprezzatura, carefree, classic and modern.

Morris Stockholm utilizes the classic F' 'em pants in the both their Spring and Fall collections.  Appropriately, the Fall collection are strong classic colors, base colors; red, blue & green.  The Spring F' 'em pants are in pink, pastel blue & pastel green.  Each season the color pallet changes and this is well recognized in the collections.  Heavy usage of colors, but the appropriate colors for each season.

A classic corduroy blazer, with elbow patches and leather buttons in a modern slim fit.  The sleeves are trim, which make the blazer look quite trim.  Navy patterned tie and patterned v-neck sweater, worn over a blue oxford shirt.  This is a nice combination of colors and patterns.  I also like the combination of wheat colored coat with gray slacks.  A mix of colors that is quite fall.

The lines on this outfit are very modern: slim, trim and clean.  The jacket is beautifully cut and in loud and broad colors in a great plaid pattern, this jacket will certainly stand out in the crowd.  I also love the tan shoes, both color and cut. 

The clean cut blazer in this outfit is gorgeous.  It is elegant, classic and has a modern cut, a great mix of two worlds.  The purple socks are an amazing touch with this outfit.  They are a pop of color that is otherwise not in the outfit.  That is the definition of artful dishevelment, sprezzatura.

I love the red flannel lining the underside of the jackets collar.  It adds a great unique element to an otherwise classic jacket.  And with this kind of jacket, you should actually be wearing it with the collar popped.  On overcoats, it is okay, on polos, it is a disgrace to your entire family.

Red plaid shirts are quite popular right now.  They are being worn in a variety of ways, but paired with tan/wheat colored corduroy pants it is not seen that often.  It is a great way to wear the shirt without channeling lumberjacks or farmers.  The oilcloth jacket is nice as well.

The story here is the red scarf with an otherwise purple outfit.  This is a beautiful mix of colors, but a very unusual one.  The addition of a red scarf takes this outfit to another level, something to remember when picking out a scarf in the future.

If a red scarf is the story in the last outfit, the red belt is the story in this outfit.  Once again the outfit is trim and modern in the fit.  Which makes the classic pairing look young and modern.  Add a bright red belt, as the sprezzatura element on the outfit, and you have an amazing outfit.

More bright colored F' 'em pants cut in a modern slim fit.  I personally would opt for a charcoal jacket, instead of the black featured here.  I actually think it would help make the whole outfit more cohesive.

Enjoy the weekend.

Suit: Natural Shoulders

Suit jackets are defined often by the shoulders. The rest of the jacket hangs from the shoulders and the shoulders help define the face of the wearer. Also, nothing makes a suit look out of style quicker than the shoulders. If the shoulders are too big you will look like a football player and it will make you look shorter, since it will shorten the length of your neck.

If the shoulders are too wide than the suit will make you look like a Dick Tracy mobster and will also shorten you by adding un-needed width. I have had to throw out at least one suit, due to unfortunate shoulder pad width.

The best looking suits have natural shoulders. This means minimal to no padding in the shoulders, letting the suit fit to your natural shoulder shape. This will help you look taller and slimmer, since the shoulders will have a nice shape without the extra padding or width. Suits are supposed to help your silhouette, making you look more masculine and powerful. Natural shoulders will define the shoulders, defining your face without hindering your look without unnecessary bulk.

You can tell a suit has natural shoulders by feeling for the padding in the shoulder. How bulky is it? Also, make sure that the shoulders of the suit stop at your natural shoulder. Keep the shoulder natural and you will have a suit that flatters your body and makes people turn their heads.

Fashion Rules

Do you know the fashion rules?

You have to be aware of the fashion dos and don'ts to properly break them, or else you risk looking like idiot. Ever talk the law with a career criminal? Trust me they know the law better than a lawyer does. A style expert, or just a well dressed man, has to be the same way, the laws of fashion need to be second nature to him.

The Rules: Abridged version

White is only acceptable between Memorial Day and Labor Day, which has been expanded to include Easter, thankfully.

• Never wear linen in the winter and tweed in the summer.
• Always match the color of your belt and your shoes, unless it is a web belt.
• Wear a conservative tie and suit to a job interview.
• Don't wear pleats EVER, plain front pants only.
• Wear a dark tie with a tan suit.
• Patent leather shoes are for black tie affairs only.
• For Formal events wear Oxfords not Bluchers. Bluchers are a casual shoes masquerading as a formal shoe.
• Go with a Four-in-Hand knot, instead of the stuffy Full Windsor (By the way, those might be the most boring videos of all time, good sleeping material).
• The tie is supposed to reach your belt, not above or below it.
• A button-down collared shirt is an informal shirt or sport shirt. A point collar is a formal shirt.
• A blazer is less formal than a suit, but is still appropriate with a tie.
• On a two button suit - button the top button and not the bottom button. On a three button suit - only button the middle button. On a double breasted suit - Keep the top button buttoned, never button the bottom one.
• Do crease your suit slacks, don't crease your chinos or jeans.
• A hat is to be worn outside and inside only until you sit down... And never inside in the presence of a lady (this is a really old school rule).

These go on and on and on.

Do you know the rules?

If not keep reading this blog for the modern day tips and read a suitable wardrobe and blogs like it for the classic rules of dress. Learn them, get familiar with them, and then break them. Its a valuable lesson and one that will save you embarrassment in the future and allow you to confidently know that the rule you are breaking that day is damn cool (and all your own).

Suit: Double Breasted Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique

Double Breasted suits are back, whether you are a fan or not. Personally, I don't like the look, but some men feel great in them and they fit their personal style. If you are going to wear a Double Breasted suit, two rules: Slim Fit & Top Button Only.

Slim Fit - the most important thing is the shoulders. Minimal shoulder pads is key. The shoulder pads should look natural and contour with the arm. Avoid bulky shoulder pads or pads that extend past your natural shoulder. It is a suit for work, not for playing football with Brett Favre.

Slim Fit also goes to the overall fit. It should be snug on your torso, not tight but snug. It should have slimmer arms and legs. Once again you don't want a tappered skinny pant look but instead a slim fit straight leg look. A double breasted suit is a big suit with an over powering look, minimize your profile with a slim cut. Otherwise you will look like a 'roided up power hitter.

Top Button Only - only button the top button, the bottom button is for show. Make sure that you keep the top and inside buttons done at all times, but the bottom button needs to be undone so that you minimize the conservative, over powering look and make it more modern. Remember this suit is very classic and very conservative, you need to keep it modern in fit and style and buttoning technique.

Also, save the double breasted suit for the important business meetings with conservative clients and power brokers. Use the single breasted (two or three button) suits for everyday wear.

Never ever ever, did I say ever, wear the double breasted jacket without the suit pants. It needs to always be a suit, never worn with jeans and never with different colored slacks. It is not as versatile as the single breasted suit which can be worn with jeans or different colored slacks. The double breasted is only used as a suit. Buy your single breasted in all the important colors before buying a double breasted.

Suit: Three Button Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique

When wearing a three button suit it is important that you only button the middle button. This will allow the jacket to create an X shape in the front with the top button folding over creating a longer lapel and the bottom opening up to reveal the shirt and tie. When only the middle button is done and this X shape is not seen, then the jacket does not have the right fit and is need of tailoring.

Proper Tailoring is always crucial with a good suit, but especially with a three button suit. Remember, never ever use the top and bottom buttons, leave them for the unfashionable. The suits above have the proper buttoning and fit.

Suit: Two Button Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique

The popular style right now, and for good reason, is the two button suit. It is a modern cut with its roots in classic style. It allows for more shirt and tie to be shown, which makes men look taller and slimmer. It also is the style suit that our President prefers and is definitely a good thing, the man knows how to dress.

He always buttons his jackets correctly, top button only. And because he has perfectly tailored suits that always means you can see a little bit of the tie under the button. This is a classic look and one I try to emulate.

I also like that President Obama never has a tie that is too perfectly tied. The dimple is always a little off center. He also wear plain front pants with his suit, a great touch for a man in as good of shape as President Obama. Considering he is the leader of the free world I appreciate that he shows as much artful dishevelment and modern style as is appropriate for a man in his position.

Remember, keep the top button done, the bottom one left open.

Chucks & Jacks - How to wear them, Suit and all

Today's Post is all about Converse Shoes. Chuck Taylor & Jack Purcell Converse Shoes have been a part of the American ethos and fashion since the early 1900s. Chuck Taylors have been made since 1917 and Jack Purcells have been produced since 1935. The shoes rose to prominence in an athletic since in the 40s & 50s. The shoes have been culturally significant for a long time and are a rare fashion statement that passes through multiple generations.

In recent years, Chucks & Jacks have made a resurgence in modern fashion; a resurgence not in the sense of a comeback, since they are ubiquitous, but instead in their use as not only a casual shoe but also as a companion piece for suits. I love wearing slip on Jacks or Chucks with shorts or jeans, but I like wearing them with a suit even more. Once again this is where style has to be personal. If you don't like the look of Chucks with a suit, I am sorry for you, but just don't wear it. It personally fits my style and are shoes that I will wear with any outfit. As long as you aren't wearing Jacks into the office with a suit, anything will fly.

The pictures above are some of my favorite ways to dress up chucks, done by common folk and celebrities. I love the pictures of Pete Marovich and others playing basketball in Chuck Taylors, its really the bees knees. James Dean as always looks so laid back and natural in his style and the pair of worn in Jack Purcells add a great ease to the style.

I like them worn with a simple suit that has good clean lines. Loosen the tie a bit, un-button the top button and don't forget the pocket square. Wear a casual belt or a casual watch, but not both. Leave the socks at home for the day and enjoy that you have comfy shoes on your hogs. Its old school cool with a twist, now act like it.

Chuck Taylors or Jack Purcells - How do you roll?

Here are my favorite Chuck Taylor & Jack Purcell Converse styles. I am a big fan of the slip on Chucks & Jacks. I really dig the slip on Jacks in white with the black accents, as well as the black Jacks with white accents. They are super clean and neat looking, but with enough visual appeal to be interesting. I like Jacks more than Chucks, since they are less common, but I own both. I also like to go with interesting options (flannel gray or seersucker) staying away from the common basic model, but sometimes you just need to stay true to the original and rock it because it is the original way to roll.

Whatever your style, find a pair of Chucks or Jacks that you can make yours and wear them! Wash them or don't wash them. Wear the low tops or the high tops. Wear Chuck Taylors or Jack Purcells. But have a pair in your arsenal. You will need them at some time.