Imperfection is Perfection

An outfit on any given day should an air of nonchalance. It should not elude to any planning or fore thought. Instead it should look carefree, spontaneous and effortless. The outfit should have mistakes, imperfections, elements of artful dishevelment and sprezzatura. The gentlemen that work at Sid Mashburn in Atlanta, Georgia, certainly dress with that thought in mind.

If your eyes do not prove to you the benefit of dressing with nonchalance, artful dishevelment and eccentricities as displayed by the Sid Mashburn crew than the following two quotes hopefully will.

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it."
- Salvador Dali

""I want to be loved, not in spite of my faults, but because of them.""
- Lise Bennett

The Italians use the term sprezzatura to describe the purposeful mistakes made in one's dress. I personally, think the term has an elegance to it that provides me with confidence when I break the conventional rules of style and fashion.

To prove my point, once again take a look at Peter Samuelson, Matt Lambert and Justin Doss, the featured employees of Sid Mashburn. Their clothes are well tailored and proportional. The colors and designs and looks are all traditional Americana. But it is the mistakes in the outfits that add the visual interest. No socks, short and crooked ties, button-down collars left un-buttoned, those are the eccentricities that define the outfit.

Bespoke Suits Everyone Can Afford

Since we all know that suits are all about fit, the best way to achieve a perfect fit is by ordering a hand made suit.  Bespoke suits can fit all types of bodies and will make you look better than even the most expensive designer suits.  In most cases considerably better, since almost no body types fit designer suits.

The one problem with bespoke suits is the cost.  Unfortunately, most men can not afford to only have bespoke suits in their wardrobe.  Even though a few bespoke suits will go much farther than a wardrobe of ill fitting off the rack suits.  Even man needs bespoke.

Well finally there is an opportunity for every man to obtain bespoke.  Indochino, offer bespoke suits tailored and made in China for $250 to $500.  They offer bespoke suits, blazers, slacks, shirts and ties.  They even have bespoke overcoats, which are incredibly attractive.  Each suit comes in limited quantities, which probably holds down costs.  The suits range from the conservative to the fashion forward.  They even make bespoke tuxedos, which is a much better option than renting, in every possible way.

The suits are all slimmer European cut.  They look to be Drape cut suits, but it is hard to tell, most likely they are a slim fit Continental cut made to look like a Drape cut.  The pants are also slim.  You just need to provide various measurements to Indochino and they will make it to your specifications.  I recommend going to a local tailor and having them measure you for a minimal cost, so that you know the measurements have been done correctly.

I have not tried making a suit with Indochino yet, but I certainly would like to try it out.  Let me know if you use the service, so we can report on the success or possible failure.

Happy suiting.

Suit: Three Button Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique

When wearing a three button suit it is important that you only button the middle button. This will allow the jacket to create an X shape in the front with the top button folding over creating a longer lapel and the bottom opening up to reveal the shirt and tie. When only the middle button is done and this X shape is not seen, then the jacket does not have the right fit and is need of tailoring.

Proper Tailoring is always crucial with a good suit, but especially with a three button suit. Remember, never ever use the top and bottom buttons, leave them for the unfashionable. The suits above have the proper buttoning and fit.

Style Profile - Gianni Agnelli

Gianni Agnelli - 1921-2003 - Head of Fiat

Popularized and epitomized Italian Sprezzatura fashion. Sprezzatura meaning "Artful Dishevelment", was accomplished by Agnelli by wearing his watch over his shirt cuff, twisting his tie, wearing no shoes or interesting shoes (see the boots below) and wearing short ties. Agnelli also wore beautifully tailored Caraceni suits that fit him perfectly, matching those suits with the Sprezzatura elements.

Gianni Agnelli played with the subtle elements of his outfits, while following the rules on the basics of his outfit. Notice how his suits are made out of great materials and tailored to fit him perfectly. The suits are always appropriate, which allow him to wear a shorter than normal tie, or wear his watch over his cuff.

Agnelli played up the sprezzatura elements of his outfits to disconcert his rivals and to allow others to misjudge his competence. Agnelli capitalized on his competitions under estimation.

Gianni Agnelli's ability to dress with style and become a style icon should be studied. As Agnelli would want you to remember, keep it stylish but non-chalant, keep it classic, keep it personalized, keep it fun.

Oxfords vs. Blucher - The distinction is key

Every man needs a pair of Oxford's in his closet. They are the most versatile and dressy shoe a man can own. They are the go to Wedding shoe, Interview shoe, Funeral shoe and if you don't have a true formal shoe the only shoe in the closet appropriate for Black Tie events. They are classy, simple and go with any suit, can be worn with business casual and with jeans. (Pictured above is a Bruno Magli Cap Toe Oxford). But please do not confuse the Oxford with the Blucher.

The Blucher is a casual shoe. It was originally designed to be worn on weekends and is a setup down from the Oxford. It is less elegant and very limited in its use. It can only properly be worn with business casual. It is not be worn with a suit, on an interview, wedding or funeral. And it must never be worn to a black tie event. The worst thing about Bluchers and Oxfords is that most shoe companies mislabel Bluchers as Oxfords. Search for a Cap Toe Oxford online and your search results will be inundated with Bluchers. Do these companies, which make and sell shoes for a living even know the difference? Do they care?

The distinction is simple. Pictured below are two examples of Bluchers mascerading as Oxfords (Giorgio Brutini on top and Johnston & Murphy on the bottom). The difference is how the laces are connected to the vamp. The Vamp is main front portion of the shoe. On a Blucher the laces are placed directly on top of the vamp. On an Oxford the vamp covers the laces creating a throat line. (Here is a great diagraphm of the anatomy of an Oxford). By having the vamp cover the laces and the creation of a throat line, the Oxford has a more finished and polished look. It ends up with a more sophisticated look which allows the shoes to be more a functions that require best dressed attire.

Next time you go shopping beaware of difference and choose appropriately. Go for an Oxford and leave the Bluchers for everyone else.

Persol sunglasses

Like a lot of the best things in fashion, Persols are made in Italy. The
name comes from Italian "Per Sol", meaning "For the Sun". Persols are the
best made sunglasses in the world. They have the style you'd expect from a
classic and the amenities you'd except from a luxury brand. Persols also
focus on making glasses, so they are as focused on the utilitarian function
of the glasses as much as the fashionable look. Throw into the mix that
they have been worn by some of the coolest men in the world and you can
understand why they are legendary.

Steve McQueen wore the infamous blue lens Persol 714 in the Thomas Crown
affair. James Bond (Roger Craig) wore two different pairs of Persols in
Casino Royale (pictured are the Persol 2720). Persols have also been donned
by other celebrities: Jack Nicholson, Richard Gere, Paul Newman, Roberto
Rossellini, Cindy Crawford, Nicolas Cage, Pierce Brosnan, Brad Pitt,
Angelina Jolie, Christian Slater, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Heath Ledger, Al
Pacino, George Clooney and Adrien Brody.

Persols are recognized by the classic metal hinge which looks stylish as
well as adds support to the folding arms. Each arm is designed with two to
four lines on it. These lines are utilitarian in nature making the arms
bend to prevent damage when you sit on them, or your child squeezes them.
Steve McQueen's Persol 714s even have hinges built in the bridge and the
arms, so they can be carried easily in a pocket.

Let us here at DF know if you have any other favorite glasses or sunglasses
brands.

Cuff Links

Cuff links are a great way to dress up a shirt, but they are also a way to show off your personal style and add flair to otherwise fairly normal and conservative outfit. These cuff links certainly add a little bit of rebellion and flair to wardrobe.

Up top are Ravi Ratan's James Bond Casino Royale cuffs

The Football cuff links are also Ravi Ratan. He makes an entire series of cuff links for each NFL and MLB team, chic way to show some team spirit. Especially in a stuffy office environment.

The Skull & Bones and the Multicolored checkerboard cuffs are both by David Donahue. I thinking adding details like Skull & Bones cuff links (done as exquisitely as these) can really show off your personality without offending anyone or sacrificing your dandy fashion sense. I think these are the cuff links are perfect for James Dean.

The last pair of cuff links are by Burberry. I think they would look impeccable with a Burberry scarf in the winter. The subtle connection between the two patterns is so understated it would almost seem accident, it would never come off as too perfect or too much of a match. The perfect combination, anything more than that with this pattern would seem too much like a Burberry catalogue ad, just not appropriate for real life.

Old School Cool

Some more old school jean pictures. The men in these pictures wear their clothes well. There is a nonchalance to the clothes that they wear and how they wear them. Style & Fashion comes off as an after thought, yet they are all immersed in it. But the utilitarian aspect of their clothes is very clear. Also, as we have discussed before, the jeans are all slim and well tailored.

Steve McQueen in the top photo, no one has ever pulled off a white shirt and jeans better. But notice he doesn't go with the typical black boots, but instead comfortable understated shoes. I can imagine them being brown suede boots, similar to these suede McAllister boots at JCrew. It makes the outfit more natural and less try-hard. A white shirt and jeans can easily come off as try-hard, because it is such a simple outfit.

The two men below have great natural style. The Cable knit sweater over the polo shirt on the man on the left is naturally cool. A classic style that will never go out of fashion. The man on the right has a great jacket over a button-down shirt. Both have jeans tucked into calf height boots, due to the mud more than the style. That is how that look can be done best, when it is necessary to keep the jeans out of the mud or rain puddles. Otherwise, it looks to planned, but when it has a purpose it looks natural, necessary and very fashionable.

In the final photo, the man on the car has great style. He has the cuffed jeans and loafers, a great and classic look. This look is best modernized with either colored socks to match the shirt or no socks at all. Also, I prefer loafers with no tassles. He has a herringbone or tweed jacket which is great way to dress up the jeans. The collar on the jacket is popped, not out of style, but out of necessity, since he is waiting outside on his car hood for his date. Once again, the utilitarian need for the popped collar gives the fashion purpose and makes it look very natural. A popped collar for no reason looks out of place and planned.

Fashion is best when it looks natural, fits the surroundings, is purposeful, appropriate and shows no signs of long-term planning. Style comes from the un-planned, subtle details that make it look sprezzatura rather than forced. Focus on making the little touches look spontaneous, even if there is extensive planning behind them. Think old school cool and your style will come through in the details.