Style versus Fashion

Style and Fashion are not interchangeable words, as is the missperception.  In fact there is a stark difference between style and fashion. John Fairchild is quoted as saying: "Style is an expression of individualism mixed with charisma. Fashion is something that comes after style." I have always seen Fashion as an ever changing ebb and flow of clothes, cuts and colors driven by high paid designers with a new jacket, shirt, shoe, fabric or color to push onto consumers each and every season. Fashion is the devil popularizes a style turning it mainstream, profitable and a caricature of its origin.

Style, when done properly, is timeless, genuine and borderless, essentially the polar opposite of Fashion. Style is often a personal expression of clothes, accessories and demeanor. It can not be emphasized enough, style is deeper than just the clothes, it embodies one's personality, attitude and characteristics. Style is about how a man wears his clothes, letting his inner self define the clothes rather than the clothes define the man.

Fashion is about wearing a new trend, a hot designer or a popular outfit because the people around will see you in a certain way. A perception that by wearing the same Gucci designer jacket that is all the rage, the world will think you're cool, smart and hip.

Style on the other hand is about owning and personalizing the clothes. It is about how you feel in the clothes find a personal voice and expressing it with the overall look. Style is more than just one trendy outfit or popular pair of jeans, but instead the overall look, day in and day out. A personal style is expressed in the moments of casual relaxation as well as the formal attire.

 
This concept is crucial to understanding style and defining your own personal style. Style is as much about how you wear your jeans as it is about how you wear your suit, or don't wear your suit. Style is an expression of self.

Think of Steve McQueen, a man that exudes style, he had his own look that was timeless and classic, yet quite personal.  He wore a suit with the best of them, classically fitted and tailored, but with his own twists, like a pocket watch with the vest and blue tinted sunglasses. Not everyman can own these choices with the confidence that McQueen does, because for him, they are genuine choices. When McQueen is seen riding his motorcycle it is often with khakis and a sweatshirt, not your typical bikers wardrobe. Yet, at no point does it look incongruous, because it fit his style, his personality and his demeanor.

To look at the other end of the spectrum, Kurt Cobain was the leader of plaid wearing teens. Kurt Cobain exuded style while being as far from fashion as possible. Cobain didn't set out to create the grunge movement and the fashionable assault that followed, he was instead just expressing his personality, wearing what he felt comfortable with. Due to his genuine and immense charisma, style and attitude others emulated him with considerably less aptitude.  Sticking with his personal style Cobain never wore a suit, a tuxedo or anything nearly that formal. It was not him and doing so would have compromised who he was. His style would not allow for it.

Learn from the best: Be stylish, not fashionable.

It's About a Wardrobe Not an Outfit

Full Wardrobe by DandyFashioner featuring Marni

When buying clothes focus on buying clothes that fill out your wardrobe as a whole, not clothes that fit specifically into an outfit. The clothes in your wardrobe should be versatile and interchangeable. The ties should be able to be worn with all your suits. The shirts should go with all of the ties. The suits should go with the shirts and so on. While one set of tie and shirt and suit may look great together, you can certainly switch it up as needed.

Buying only outfits makes your clothes repetitive and predictable. When you wear the tweed jacket with the purple tie and white striped shirt every time, people will no longer think it is an interesting combination, and instead find your wardrobe boring and downright unoriginal.

If you think of the wardrobe as a whole, with holes that need to be filled, then you will have more universal and interesting wardrobe. The clothes become puzzle pieces and fit together beautifully. The same shirt and jacket will work with every tie in closet. The gray suit works with every shirt in the wardrobe. The red silk knit tie will fill in that gap in the wardrobe you have been thinking about.

This is way we stick to gray, blue and brown suits, in general, as they are more versatile and useful. And avoid black suits as they are limiting and eventually useless. We avoid suits with pinstripes in colors like pink and purple and green, since they limit the options on shirts and ties that we can wear with them.

Only as we fill the holes of our wardrobe do we add the unusual pieces and colors. Having a dark gray suit, navy suit, tan suit, medium gray, light gray and brown suit do we expand to the pinstripes, glenn check, window pane and hounds-tooth suits. This will ensure that our wardrobe is never boring, provides us with true longevity and the clothes will fit all occasions.

Of course, their are exceptions to the rules but keeping versatility in mind will keep your wardrobe fresh and interesting for you and others.

The Versatile Brown Shoes

Most men wear black shoes with dark colors and brown shoes with light colors.  While a black cap toe Oxford is needed in every closet, since it is the most formal and serious shoe made for a suit, brown is most versatile.

 

It is common that men under utilize the brown oxford shoe.  Black shoes are commonly seen and worn almost as a rule where a brown shoe can add style, flair and make the outfit look smarter.  Never fear wearing brown with dark colors, no matter the shade of brown, it goes well with any color suit.

The men that do wear brown with darker colors, usually wear a dark brown shoe.  This is quite acceptable and looks good, but personally I prefer the light brown or tan shoe.  I especially enjoy a modeled brown shoe with colors ranging from tan to dark brown.  I think a modeled brown shoe is the most versatile shoe made since it picks up all shades so well and it visually interesting.  It is also a shoe that improves with age and time, growing character and becoming more personal.

Gray suits, no matter the shade, are benefited tremendously from the brown shoes.  It brings out the richness of the suits fabric.  Enhancing the colors and adding an interesting pop of color at the waist and at the shoe.

Navy or Blue suits and brown shoes are a natural, in my opinion.  Blue and Brown go well together and the colors enhance each other well.  I think that black shoes actually take away some of the color and beauty found in a navy blue suit.  I would only suggest wearing black suits with a blue suit in only the rarest occasions when formality is mandatory.

Brown shoes even work with black.  Brown shoes and a belt pop with a black suit, highlighting the craftsmanship of both.  While I generally do not condone a black suit, this is a great technique to send focus to the shoes and belt.

Keep the brown shoes with only minor brogue work and a beautiful and sleek last (a term referring to the shoes silhouette) and they can be worn for almost any occasion with any suit.  Brown is much better than black.

Bespoke Suits Everyone Can Afford

Since we all know that suits are all about fit, the best way to achieve a perfect fit is by ordering a hand made suit.  Bespoke suits can fit all types of bodies and will make you look better than even the most expensive designer suits.  In most cases considerably better, since almost no body types fit designer suits.

The one problem with bespoke suits is the cost.  Unfortunately, most men can not afford to only have bespoke suits in their wardrobe.  Even though a few bespoke suits will go much farther than a wardrobe of ill fitting off the rack suits.  Even man needs bespoke.

Well finally there is an opportunity for every man to obtain bespoke.  Indochino, offer bespoke suits tailored and made in China for $250 to $500.  They offer bespoke suits, blazers, slacks, shirts and ties.  They even have bespoke overcoats, which are incredibly attractive.  Each suit comes in limited quantities, which probably holds down costs.  The suits range from the conservative to the fashion forward.  They even make bespoke tuxedos, which is a much better option than renting, in every possible way.

The suits are all slimmer European cut.  They look to be Drape cut suits, but it is hard to tell, most likely they are a slim fit Continental cut made to look like a Drape cut.  The pants are also slim.  You just need to provide various measurements to Indochino and they will make it to your specifications.  I recommend going to a local tailor and having them measure you for a minimal cost, so that you know the measurements have been done correctly.

I have not tried making a suit with Indochino yet, but I certainly would like to try it out.  Let me know if you use the service, so we can report on the success or possible failure.

Happy suiting.

Always List - Boots

Every guy needs a pair of boots, a good pair of who-gives-a-damn-boots. The kind of boots that only look better the more wear and tear, or "character" they gain. The best boots can not be bought distressed but instead must earn the scrapes, scars and patina. Whether it be from riding on the chopper, doing yard work, or going to the bar, shit kicker boots are like a fine wine and a well dressed man, they only get better with time. A good pair of boots remind me of Marv, Mickey Rourke's character in Sin City, scars upon scars and each scar only improves his appearance. The kind of boots you need to feel comfortable saying, "This is blood for blood and by the gallon. These are the old days, the bad days, the all-or-nothing days. They're back! There's no choice left. And I'm ready for war." As Marv would tell you.

Frye Boots, Rogan Engineer 8 inch boots will work. Made well, classic style, good silhouette (sleek and full bodied), wooden heel with a rubber sole, rounded toe, high quality leather, no zipper. These boots can go from the board room to the bar to the motorcycle with ease.

Suit: Double Breasted Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique

Double Breasted suits are back, whether you are a fan or not. Personally, I don't like the look, but some men feel great in them and they fit their personal style. If you are going to wear a Double Breasted suit, two rules: Slim Fit & Top Button Only.

Slim Fit - the most important thing is the shoulders. Minimal shoulder pads is key. The shoulder pads should look natural and contour with the arm. Avoid bulky shoulder pads or pads that extend past your natural shoulder. It is a suit for work, not for playing football with Brett Favre.

Slim Fit also goes to the overall fit. It should be snug on your torso, not tight but snug. It should have slimmer arms and legs. Once again you don't want a tappered skinny pant look but instead a slim fit straight leg look. A double breasted suit is a big suit with an over powering look, minimize your profile with a slim cut. Otherwise you will look like a 'roided up power hitter.

Top Button Only - only button the top button, the bottom button is for show. Make sure that you keep the top and inside buttons done at all times, but the bottom button needs to be undone so that you minimize the conservative, over powering look and make it more modern. Remember this suit is very classic and very conservative, you need to keep it modern in fit and style and buttoning technique.

Also, save the double breasted suit for the important business meetings with conservative clients and power brokers. Use the single breasted (two or three button) suits for everyday wear.

Never ever ever, did I say ever, wear the double breasted jacket without the suit pants. It needs to always be a suit, never worn with jeans and never with different colored slacks. It is not as versatile as the single breasted suit which can be worn with jeans or different colored slacks. The double breasted is only used as a suit. Buy your single breasted in all the important colors before buying a double breasted.

Sprezzatura

Whether you want to call it nonchalant, unstudied, carefree, artful dishevelment, sartorial rebellion, or sprezzatura, the concept is the same: men’s outfits should never look too perfect. An outfit should rely on the tailoring and fit rather than an obviously studied presentation of colors and fabrics and patterns. Does this mean that style should not follow rules, classic idioms and social norms? No, it is important that the rules are known, understood, internalized and most of the time followed. Dressing with the confines of societal norms is necessary, especially at events that call for it. Wear a shirt, jeans and Chuck Taylors to a job interview and you most likely won’t get the job. Wear a tuxedo to the office and you will be laughed out of the building. Wear a conservative suit and tie combination on a first date and you will come off as stodgy and boring. Wear a white linen suit to a Christmas party and you will forever be remembered as “that guy”.

At the same point, if you always make sure that your pocket square matches your tie exactly, your shirt is extra starched and no fashion rule is ever broken, then your wardrobe will make you seem like an un-original try-hard who is downright unapproachable. But if you break some rules and make your style nonchalant, cool and modern, you will come off as a cool and hip guy with a great sense of style. After all we are men and part of our charm is our idiosyncrasies. Ask any married woman why she really loves her husband and you will get a list of things he does wrong that she loves about him, a list of enduring faults that he has and will be able to change. Our charm comes from our lack of perfection, so should our style reflect our own lack of perfection? I certainly can embrace imperfection as an asset and can flaunt it in my personal style. But how can I accomplish this without looking like uncoordinated style misfit?

First, let’s understand what sprezzatura means and where it comes from. Sprezzatura, is a term that originates from Baldassare Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier. It is defined as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it.” Otherwise defined as "Artful Dishevelment". When I think of the embodiment of sprezzatura, I think of Columbo, the TV show from the 1970s. Not for his dress (even though it was very sprezzatura), but instead his carefree, nonchalant demeanor that had a distinct and measured purpose. Columbo would catch people off guard with his hap-hazard demeanor and yet was calculating using his nonchalance as an asset. That is my goal with fashion, to be studied, measured and calculated in what I wear but make it look effortless, carefree and artfully disheveled. It takes a lot of planning to look unstudied.

Varying Degrees of Sprezzatura –

Since style changes based on the occasion this has a wide range of implementations and execution depending on what, where and when of the outfit is worn. An interview, a date and a normal day at the office all call for a different style and level of formality. This also calls for a different level of carefree dishevelment that is portrayed in the outfit.

For a formal and proper occasion, like a black tie event, the outfit’s carefree nature should be in the subtle details. An informal patterned pocket square, a cuff link missing a loop, a tie or bow tie that is tied just slightly crooked, an un-buttoned surgeon’s cuff button, an informal bracelet or two worn with a watch, an antique watch with a leather band with a natural patina, a red carnation in the lapel (instead of a more formal corsage), unusual or brightly colored socks, or an older belt with natural subtle distressing. Implementing one or two of these elements will provide the outfit with subtle sprezzatura while still allowing the wearer to fit into the event without looking out of place, or badly dressed.

For less formal events and occasions the same techniques as above can be implemented, as well as more overt and bold sprezzatura. This is where personal style comes into play. For some a hap-hazard ironing job and a twisted tie are extremely disheveled, while for others these are just the standard implementation of daily sprezzatura. While one man can pull off red driving shoes with jeans and a white linen coat, another man would not feel comfortable and confident in the outfit. Some men feel that wearing jeans at all is wildly rebellious, while another man may need to wear tattered and distressed jeans to reach the same level of sartorial contradiction, considering his personal style. Sprezzatura is the broken and bended rules in a man’s outfit, idiosyncrasies of his personal fashion.

As you will see with the experts of sprezzatura, each man’s implementation is filtered through his own style lens. It is personalized and distinct to his own set of fashion rules and acceptable gray areas. Lapo Elkann and Luca Rubinacci, for example, have bolder and more extreme implementations of sprezzatura then Gianni Agnelli. Yet, all three of these style icons, have their own unique version of sprezzatura that would not work for another man. Rubinacci’s bright blue slacks do not work for Elkann or Agnelli. But then Agnelli’s watch worn over his cuff would look wrong on Rubinacci or Elkann’s wrist. Take a look at how these men implement sprezzatura, personalize it and make it their own. What is your sprezzatura technique? I would love to hear your personalization.

Sprezzatura Fashion -

Gianni Agnelli – the Godfather of modern sprezzatura. He dressed off kilter because he wanted to put people at ease, not because it was cool or "in fashion".

Lapo Elkann – the son of the Godfather of modern sprezzatura. He took sprezzatura to a whole new level.

Sid Mashburn – one of GQ's Ten Most Stylish Men in America. His style is a perfect mix of Southern charm and Italian sprezzatura.

Michael Bastian – classic lines and slick fashion with a subtle sprezzatura. He gives classic American style an edge.

Luca Rubinacci – no one does modern day Italian sprezzatura better. He reinvents style everytime he wears an outfit. A brilliant mix of extreme sprezzatura and Italian tailoring.

Fall Essentials - Shawl Collar Sweater

Retro is back in fashion and that is certainly evident with shawl collar sweaters. I am still a little undecided if I love or ate the look, but it is certainly something different, which is always needed in men's fashion. Plus, shawl collars were popularized by Steve McQueen and Paul Newman, who can doubt their style?

Rugby Shawl Collar Cardigan - in the picture aboove

Rugby College Stripe Shawl Collar Sweater

Woolrich Shawl Collar Cardigan

Woolrich Shawl Collar Sweater

Rugby Shawl Collar Cardigan

Ralph Lauren Cable Knit Shawl Collar Sweater

J Crew Shawl Collar Sweater

J Crew Shawl Collar Cardigan

Hugo Boss Shawl Collar Double Breasted Cardigan

Hugo Boss Shawl Collar Sweater

Hickey Shawl Collar Sweater