The "Italian background"

Italians love to wear a navy tie and light blue shirt with almost everything they wear. It can be considered the "Italian background" for a suit. It is conservative, classic and perfect for business. It might be the most universally appropriate shirt & tie combination. While it can be dull looking, it has tremendous value in its versatility and classical pairing.  Keep this pairing in mind when you want to push the boundaries in other areas of your outfit.

If you want to wear a brightly or vibrantly colored pocket square or an offbeat colored odd jacket or an odd vest with your suit. The "Italian background" will work great. It works with most any suit made, since it is so conservative, classic and quite frankly dull.  This conservative base allows for risks be taken in other areas without the outfit looking inappropriate. The "Italian background" grounds the outfit in a classic heritage that allows for the suits, pocket squares and odd jackets to be any thing but conservative.  Whenever you are not sure what will work with the new odd jacket that you just bought, think about the "Italian background", it will take the outfit from risky to downright dandy.

Bespoke Suits Everyone Can Afford

Since we all know that suits are all about fit, the best way to achieve a perfect fit is by ordering a hand made suit.  Bespoke suits can fit all types of bodies and will make you look better than even the most expensive designer suits.  In most cases considerably better, since almost no body types fit designer suits.

The one problem with bespoke suits is the cost.  Unfortunately, most men can not afford to only have bespoke suits in their wardrobe.  Even though a few bespoke suits will go much farther than a wardrobe of ill fitting off the rack suits.  Even man needs bespoke.

Well finally there is an opportunity for every man to obtain bespoke.  Indochino, offer bespoke suits tailored and made in China for $250 to $500.  They offer bespoke suits, blazers, slacks, shirts and ties.  They even have bespoke overcoats, which are incredibly attractive.  Each suit comes in limited quantities, which probably holds down costs.  The suits range from the conservative to the fashion forward.  They even make bespoke tuxedos, which is a much better option than renting, in every possible way.

The suits are all slimmer European cut.  They look to be Drape cut suits, but it is hard to tell, most likely they are a slim fit Continental cut made to look like a Drape cut.  The pants are also slim.  You just need to provide various measurements to Indochino and they will make it to your specifications.  I recommend going to a local tailor and having them measure you for a minimal cost, so that you know the measurements have been done correctly.

I have not tried making a suit with Indochino yet, but I certainly would like to try it out.  Let me know if you use the service, so we can report on the success or possible failure.

Happy suiting.

Suit: Three Kinds - Drape, Continental & Sack

Expertly tailored suits come in two general styles or cuts: Drape or Continental. There is also a third style, but it is not nearly as attractive or well tailored, the Sack.

Drape Cut Suit -
Drape is my favorite suit cut. It was developed by the English, but have expanded from there. It has soft, light or unpadded “natural” shoulders, side vents an hourglass shape and a high waist on the jacket. It can be single or double breasted. The term Drape refers to how the suit is built. The structure of a Drape jacket comes from layers of fabric on the chest and back that drape down from the shoulders. These layers of cloth keep the jacket full in the chest, but allow for freedom of movement and a soft, supple look. This jacket will follow the body and move with the individual. Some feel that construction of a Drape cut suit requires the most skill as a tailor. Drape suits were worn by Fred Astaire and Duke of Windsor and others with impeccable taste.

Continental Cut Suit -
Continental cut is originated in Italy by Roman tailors, but have expanded from there. It has its history in military uniforms and is identified by it very structured design. Continental suits have structured and defined shoulders, typically high & more squared shoulders. A true Continental cut will be close-fitting with a defined waist line. The skirt of the jacket can either flare out or hang straight. The suit has a solid and structured look and in a classic model is ventless. It will have very clean lines in the chest and back, but will limit the range of motion. This suit was popularized on wall street and “serious” business and is often called a power business suit. Donald Trump will only wear a Continental cut suit as will other power brokers of business.

Sack Cut Suit -
Sack cut suits are least attractive of all the suits. They are shapeless and are common for on the rack suits. The jackets flow straight down from the shoulders in a shapeless sack like shape. The body of the suit is roomy and typically has a single center vent. Classic sack suits are three-button suits, but now they are made in many different variations. The sack suit was originated in America by large retailers who needed to make a suit that fit everyone. J. Press is one of the most high profile makers of the Sack cut suit. The modern version of the sack suit is now a little more tailored, but it is still designed to fit the masses. It is the least flattering of the three suits, since it is designed to fit everyone it in turn fits no one.

Suit: Three kind of Vents

When looking to buy a suit, you should notice the kind of vents the suit has. The vents are often forgotten but can either help out your physique or hurt it. They are also a signal for how dressy a suit is. Don't over look the vents. The three kinds of vents are: Center Vent, Side Vents and No Vent.

Center Vent - This is the cut up the middle of the jacket. It is typically found on the more casual blazer and suits. It is a very American cut, but offers little benefit to your figure. Center vents are the most common vent, so every closet will have them. Despite the commonality, they offer no benefit to the physique of the wearer. Just make sure that when the jacket is on that the center vent is closed. An open vent means that the jacket does not fit right.

Side Vents - are found on either side of the back panel of the jacket. Side vents offer a great range of motion and typically found on more modern suits. The English prefer the side vents as they are considered more proper and formal. Side vents also benefit most men's physique. Men with extra girth should always opt for side vents as the two vertical lines in the back of the suit are slimming. Side vents also allow the back of the suit to lay flat, no matter the body type. I always try to buy my full suits with side vents.

No Vent or Ventless - Jackets with no vents provide a very slimming shape to the wearer, but limit the range of motion. The look when standing is clean and sleek. It is a formal look, often used in Tuxedos. If you don't mind the restricted movement, then a ventless jacket can help any man look slimmer, especially a hefty man. That being said, I will always opt for the side vents as the range of motion is an important factor to me.

Remember to check the vents before buying your next suit.

Suit: Natural Shoulders

Suit jackets are defined often by the shoulders. The rest of the jacket hangs from the shoulders and the shoulders help define the face of the wearer. Also, nothing makes a suit look out of style quicker than the shoulders. If the shoulders are too big you will look like a football player and it will make you look shorter, since it will shorten the length of your neck.

If the shoulders are too wide than the suit will make you look like a Dick Tracy mobster and will also shorten you by adding un-needed width. I have had to throw out at least one suit, due to unfortunate shoulder pad width.

The best looking suits have natural shoulders. This means minimal to no padding in the shoulders, letting the suit fit to your natural shoulder shape. This will help you look taller and slimmer, since the shoulders will have a nice shape without the extra padding or width. Suits are supposed to help your silhouette, making you look more masculine and powerful. Natural shoulders will define the shoulders, defining your face without hindering your look without unnecessary bulk.

You can tell a suit has natural shoulders by feeling for the padding in the shoulder. How bulky is it? Also, make sure that the shoulders of the suit stop at your natural shoulder. Keep the shoulder natural and you will have a suit that flatters your body and makes people turn their heads.

Suit: The three kinds of Lapels

For any suit that I would recommend wearing, there are only three appropriate collars: notched, peaked & shawl. Each lapel has its place on a jacket, each lapel works with the suit, the occasion and your body to provide the proper or improper look.

Notched Lapels - these are the classic lapel on most suits. They are the most common and basic lapel on a suit. The lapel works great for any body type and compliments men of all shapes and sizes. Notched lapels look great on single breasted two button and three button suits. Keep in mind the width of the lapel, too wide the lapel and you will look like a gangster, too skinny the lapel and you will look like a hipster trying to be cool. Stick to a medium to narrow lapel, a width that is classic and timeless.

Peaked Lapels - this lapel is most commonly found on double breasted suits. When buying a double breasted suit, do not purchase it unless it has a peaked lapel. A notched lapel should never grace a double breasted suit. Peaked lapels can work on single breasted suits and formal wear as well. A peaked lapel on a single breasted suit is more formal than a notched lapel, because it has the same lines as a tuxedo. A peaked lapel adds width to the shoulders, so it should be worn on slighter men and men who want to accentuate the shoulders. Men with more girth and size should be cautious employing the peaked lapel.

Shawl Collar Lapels - typically is only used on formal wear. It is always used on one, two or three button tuxedos. I prefer it with a one or two button tux and really recommend sticking with the one button look. Shawl collars are also seen in sweaters, but rarely seen in non-formal suit.

Know your lapels and avoid faux pas like notched lapels on a double breasted suit.

Always List - Gray Suit

Gray Suit - Having a suit is crucial for any man, but if you don't have one make sure you get a Charcoal Gray Suit or Dark Gray Suit. The fit of a good suit is essential to making the suit look good. A badly fitting expensive suit will make you look sloppy, while a well tailored inexpensive suit will make you look like a million bucks. The suit needs to fit differently depending on if it is a two-button or three-button suits.

The best way to find the right suit is to go to a place that will have multiple brands and cuts for you to try on like, Macys, Bloomingdales or Nordstroms. For your first suit, stay away from the pinstripes, window pane checks and keep it a plain simple charcoal gray. This suit will be accented by the shirt and tie and you can have more fun with the combination if the suit is plain. Also a pinstripe suit is hard to wear for a wedding, interview or funeral. Dark Gray will go well with brown shoes or black shoes. It will also go well with any color combination of tie and shirt.


So buy a plain charcoal gray suit. Make sure it is well tailored, slim fit. Make sure you are comfortable in the suit and you will have it for the next 5 years (at least).

Suit: Double Breasted Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique

Double Breasted suits are back, whether you are a fan or not. Personally, I don't like the look, but some men feel great in them and they fit their personal style. If you are going to wear a Double Breasted suit, two rules: Slim Fit & Top Button Only.

Slim Fit - the most important thing is the shoulders. Minimal shoulder pads is key. The shoulder pads should look natural and contour with the arm. Avoid bulky shoulder pads or pads that extend past your natural shoulder. It is a suit for work, not for playing football with Brett Favre.

Slim Fit also goes to the overall fit. It should be snug on your torso, not tight but snug. It should have slimmer arms and legs. Once again you don't want a tappered skinny pant look but instead a slim fit straight leg look. A double breasted suit is a big suit with an over powering look, minimize your profile with a slim cut. Otherwise you will look like a 'roided up power hitter.

Top Button Only - only button the top button, the bottom button is for show. Make sure that you keep the top and inside buttons done at all times, but the bottom button needs to be undone so that you minimize the conservative, over powering look and make it more modern. Remember this suit is very classic and very conservative, you need to keep it modern in fit and style and buttoning technique.

Also, save the double breasted suit for the important business meetings with conservative clients and power brokers. Use the single breasted (two or three button) suits for everyday wear.

Never ever ever, did I say ever, wear the double breasted jacket without the suit pants. It needs to always be a suit, never worn with jeans and never with different colored slacks. It is not as versatile as the single breasted suit which can be worn with jeans or different colored slacks. The double breasted is only used as a suit. Buy your single breasted in all the important colors before buying a double breasted.

Suit: Two Button Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique

The popular style right now, and for good reason, is the two button suit. It is a modern cut with its roots in classic style. It allows for more shirt and tie to be shown, which makes men look taller and slimmer. It also is the style suit that our President prefers and is definitely a good thing, the man knows how to dress.

He always buttons his jackets correctly, top button only. And because he has perfectly tailored suits that always means you can see a little bit of the tie under the button. This is a classic look and one I try to emulate.

I also like that President Obama never has a tie that is too perfectly tied. The dimple is always a little off center. He also wear plain front pants with his suit, a great touch for a man in as good of shape as President Obama. Considering he is the leader of the free world I appreciate that he shows as much artful dishevelment and modern style as is appropriate for a man in his position.

Remember, keep the top button done, the bottom one left open.