Showing posts with label proper style technique. Show all posts
Showing posts with label proper style technique. Show all posts

Friday, September 25, 2009

The Art of Color - What Colors Go Well Together

Picking which colors go well together is much easier than most people think. The key to choosing the right colors for the right occasions is all about the color wheel. If you imagine the color wheel when you are picking out the colors of your outfit you will have no problem making sure your outfit matches and the colors all go well together. With suits and most men’s clothes sticking to solid color ties and solid color suits makes it that much easier to play around with color matching. Color matching with a lot of patterns is very difficult to do well and something I would not recommend.

A couple of basic rules: Gray & White are neutral colors. They go with any color in the rainbow. If in doubt wear a neutral shirt (white) or neutral suit (gray). Brown shoes and Black shoes are both universal. They go with any color suit and any color combination. Personally I have my preferences with shoe color, but there is not a wrong choice. Also it must be noted that khaki pants & jeans in the fashion world are considered neutral colors, wear them with any colors and it will work well.

The most basic color match is to keep items within the same color family, but different shades. Wearing a navy blue suit a blue and gray tie and a light blue shirt will always work well. Wearing colors that are varying degrees of depth and darkness is considered a monochromatic look. This is a sophisticated and conservative look, but that is never a bad thing.

Looking at a color wheel you can see that each color has its opposite and complimentary color. Going around the circle the complimentary color is the one that is directly opposite it on the other side of the wheel. Purple is opposite yellow, blue is opposite orange, red is opposite green, etc. This is a simple complimentary color match and will always work in fashion. These color matches are often found in neck ties. Red and Green rep ties are quite common, as are blue and orange patterns. If you have a light blue shirt wear it with a dark orange tie and you will look very sharp. This also explains why light green and pink match so well.

Now looking at the color wheel, draw a balanced triangle in the color wheel and those three colors all match each other. Take for example: Blue, Yellow and Red. They form a basic color triangle that will match the colors well. This is why you can wear a navy blazer, a red pocket square and yellow tie with gray slacks or khakis and you will look great. Drawing the same triangle for any set of colors will result in an outfit that is very attractive without feeling like it was overly planned out and matchy.

Once you have mastered the color triangle you can make a two color match with any two colors at are connected by a side of the triangle. In the example above red and blue are connected with the base of the triangle. Those two colors are fantastic to match together. A blue shirt, a red knit tie and a double breasted navy jacket is one of the most classic and beautiful outfits a man can wear. I love that color combination for work and for a date. This will work with any side of the triangle as you rotate it around the color wheel. This is the reason blue and green work so well together.

Another color match is the wedge triangle, which is depicted above. In this case dark blue, maroon and yellow are all connected via the wedge. These three colors match well together and can have a great balance. As do any of the colors in a wedge triangle. Just like the basic color triangle you can match just two colors of a wedge triangle and wear those together. This is why maroon and navy blue are often found together in ties and shirts.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Suit: Double Breasted Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique






Double Breasted suits are back, whether you are a fan or not. Personally, I don't like the look, but some men feel great in them and they fit their personal style. If you are going to wear a Double Breasted suit, two rules: Slim Fit & Top Button Only.

Slim Fit - the most important thing is the shoulders. Minimal shoulder pads is key. The shoulder pads should look natural and contour with the arm. Avoid bulky shoulder pads or pads that extend past your natural shoulder. It is a suit for work, not for playing football with Brett Favre.

Slim Fit also goes to the overall fit. It should be snug on your torso, not tight but snug. It should have slimmer arms and legs. Once again you don't want a tappered skinny pant look but instead a slim fit straight leg look. A double breasted suit is a big suit with an over powering look, minimize your profile with a slim cut. Otherwise you will look like a 'roided up power hitter.

Top Button Only - only button the top button, the bottom button is for show. Make sure that you keep the top and inside buttons done at all times, but the bottom button needs to be undone so that you minimize the conservative, over powering look and make it more modern. Remember this suit is very classic and very conservative, you need to keep it modern in fit and style and buttoning technique.

Also, save the double breasted suit for the important business meetings with conservative clients and power brokers. Use the single breasted (two or three button) suits for everyday wear.

Never ever ever, did I say ever, wear the double breasted jacket without the suit pants. It needs to always be a suit, never worn with jeans and never with different colored slacks. It is not as versatile as the single breasted suit which can be worn with jeans or different colored slacks. The double breasted is only used as a suit. Buy your single breasted in all the important colors before buying a double breasted.

Suit: Three Button Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique





When wearing a three button suit it is important that you only button the middle button. This will allow the jacket to create an X shape in the front with the top button folding over creating a longer lapel and the bottom opening up to reveal the shirt and tie. When only the middle button is done and this X shape is not seen, then the jacket does not have the right fit and is need of tailoring.

Proper Tailoring is always crucial with a good suit, but especially with a three button suit. Remember, never ever use the top and bottom buttons, leave them for the unfashionable. The suits above have the proper buttoning and fit.

Suit: Two Button Suit - Proper Buttoning Technique



The popular style right now, and for good reason, is the two button suit. It is a modern cut with its roots in classic style. It allows for more shirt and tie to be shown, which makes men look taller and slimmer. It also is the style suit that our President prefers and is definitely a good thing, the man knows how to dress.

He always buttons his jackets correctly, top button only. And because he has perfectly tailored suits that always means you can see a little bit of the tie under the button. This is a classic look and one I try to emulate.

I also like that President Obama never has a tie that is too perfectly tied. The dimple is always a little off center. He also wear plain front pants with his suit, a great touch for a man in as good of shape as President Obama. Considering he is the leader of the free world I appreciate that he shows as much artful dishevelment and modern style as is appropriate for a man in his position.

Remember, keep the top button done, the bottom one left open.