J.Press at Urban Outfitters??

WTF?  What did you say?  J. Press, the East Coast style stalwart of classic traditional men's clothes, are at Urban Outfitters, the purveyor of trendy casual clothing for hipsters?  This can't be a good idea.  There is no way these two companies came together and actually made something that works both of them... or could they?

Judge for yourself?  Traditional classic designs, modern slim cut, well made and straddling the line between stuffy and trendy without being either.  Yep, the combination is a slam dunk success.  Check out the wool crew neck sweaters in classic gray and light blue.  They are perfect in anyone's wardrobe.

They are heavy, classic and slim fit. 

Then we come to the oxfords.  They have a perfectly muddled blue oxford as well as a pink striped and blue striped edition.  The oxfords are cut for the modern day man, but would make the stuffiest traditionalist in Martha's Vineyard happy.  They have great style and are essential to any man's wardrobe.  It looks right at a hipster bar or under a suit in law office, which is a rare feat.

Then we have the khaki pants, slim cut without being tight.  Shorter cropped, without looking like high waters.  They would look good with Sperrys, Aldens or Purcells.  Another wardrobe essential done, just the way it should be modern but classically traditional.

I wanted to hate the collaboration between J.Press and Urban Outfitters, but instead I am impressed and wanting more of it.  I know I am getting carried away, but I would like to see Urban Outfitters modern tailoring sharpen the pencil on all that J.Press has to offer.  Maybe that would result in more well cut classics, or maybe it would just ruin the classic brand.  Either way, I like what we have here.  It is just what the stuffy J.Press needed and just what the ultra liberal Urban Outfitter needed, a well complimented collaboration of conflicting styles.

Carhartt Now More Than Ever

I have always loved quality and functionality.  I think they are both essential to my personal style as I like to buy something and wear it for years.  That is why I always recommend building a wardrobe on classics and not fashion.  But sometimes style and fashion converge, as we are seeing now in the rugged workman and lumberjack looks.  So now more than ever I recommend Carhartt.

Carhartt has made the best work wear for years.  Classic, durable, and great for cold weather.  The stuff can stand up to the worst abuse or the coldest conditions.  I highly recommend the Carhartt Chore Coat, as shown above.  It comes with blanket lining and a great classic look.  Suitable for a casual cold day around the city.  Wear it with jeans and a flannel or chambray shirt.

I also think they make a great looking vest and jeans.  The vest is not the horrible vinyl shiny look that you see everywhere, but instead a nice simple plain design.

The jeans are worker jeans.  They are relaxed fit and baggier than what is trendy but I like that right now, for an occasional variation to the slim fit jeans.  Go with the Duck Brown and wear them with Red Wing Boots, they will look better with boots, as they look like the belong worn with boots.  Just don't wear the jacket, vest and pants at the same time, that is just wrong.

So if you want classic and durable go with Carhartt and forget the APC colaboration with them, it just feels too forced.  Since when have the French and workwear ever mixed well?

Classic Shoes With a Twist

 

We all know that a pair of kicks can really change an outfit and help you stand out. Women certainly look at shoes a lot more then men, trust me they notice when you are rocking a new pair of shoes. At Modern Dignified we enjoy classic items with a twist, whether it is shirts, jackets or shoes.  It is great to have the iconic shoes in a closet, but it is even better to have memorable and stylish shoes that are not worn so often by so many people that they become a cliché. Keeping a unique voice with our style is certainly important at Modern Dignified.

VAEL Project shoes are just that, stylish, classic with a modern twist, unique and not yet on everyone's feet. VAEL Project shoes are high quality, well made and quite stylish, but still reasonably priced. The shoes are exactly what we look for at Modern Dignified a way to express our unique style without fitting in with a pre-defined subculture.  Take for example the Apres boot in black or brown it combines stylish components of a hiking boot and a work boot, while still keeping its own voice. This boot looks appropriate for a night in the city or a quite weekend in the country, a versatile boot with high end construction, yet it is only $215.

Another example of the unique style that VAEL Project offers, is the Deckard boot. It is the VAEL version of a boat shoe turned into a boot. It is combat boot combined with a boat shoe twisted into a modern stylish boot.  This is a bold look and not right for everyone, but it certainly has the style and design to get recognized in a good way. The Deckard boot is also reasonably priced at $220, considerably less than most boots of similar style.

VAEL Project also makes the Deckard boot in a mid height. This is a shoe that can be worn day in and day out with almost any outfit in the closet.  It can be worn to the office or on a weekend, it is a versatile and adaptable shoe. It is also sold in a style called: Charles, which comes with a more rugged sole that adds outdoorsmen style to the boot. Whether you choose the Charles or the Deckard mid, the boot is certainly Modern Dignified's favorite of the VAEL collection. Keeping with the well priced
trend, this boot is $150.

Most of the boots and shoes that VAEL sells come with different color combinations and styles. Take for example the Brogue boot, a classic shoe with brogue detailing turned into an everyday boot. It epitomizes classic styling turned on its ear, but done in a rakish way. The brogue boot has a variety of colors and looks, but our favorites are the classic black and the brown with red buffalo check detailing. This boot sold for $160, once again offers versatile fashion in a unique design. The addition of the red
buffalo check, is exactly the unique style that VAEL seems to channel.

Looking at the VAEL Project trainers, they seem to have found a way to mix colors and designs in a new way, while still feeling classic and timeless. The shoes we at Modern Dignified like are the Klipspringer Mocha, the Borg Metallic Gold and the Borg Frog, all selling for $130. The Borg Frog combined green, black, yellow, gray and off-white into a single cohesive shoe. The sleek shape and timeless lines for the shoes help keep it stylish while the designers at VAEL Project manipulate colors and textures. The Borg Frog has textured leather mixed with smooth leather and a recognizable sole.

If you want something different, classic, modern and stylish, VAEL Project is worth a look. Edgy and unique while staying true to the classics.

Subtle Sprezzatura - Twisted Tie Knots

Growing up we were taught how to tie the perfect knot, and not just a perfect four-in-hand but the perfect Windsor, half Windsor and Prince Albert. Despite needing to know how to tie the perfect knot for particular occasions, such as business meetings, interviews and funerals, not in order of importance, we have found that in some instances the perfect knot is just that.

Rarely, do we want our outfit to look perfect, unless it is immediately followed with disheveled or a gorgeous woman is on the other end of the statement. Instead we find that adding a little bit of carelessness and nonchalance to the outfit is, much more intriguing. We find that looking a shade less than perfect, is in fact the way we end up with a gorgeous woman calling our outfit perfection. The key we have found to knowing the right amount of carefree sprezzatura to an outfit comes with knowing how to be perfect and then mucking it up. The planned and calculated mistake that gives an outfit a careless air is when we at Modern Dignified feel an outfit is complete.

A common tactic we have shameless stolen from one of the King of Sprezzatura style, is the twisted tie knot. This sprezzatura flair among other quirks helped crown Gianni Agnelli as one of the best dressed men in the history of the world. A shrewd business man and head of Fiat, Agnelli would twist his ties on purpose to make his competition and rivals underestimate his brilliance. Agnelli used sprezzatura fashion quirks as a way to lull his fellow businessmen into a false sense of security. It is with that planned dishevelment that we at Modern Dignified find so appealing.

The subtleness at which Agnelli twists his ties is amplified by the employees at Sid Mashburn in Atlanta, Georgia. At Sid Mashburn they take the sprezzatura of the past, take it out of the boardroom, make it modern and amplify it. Not only are the ties twisted but they do not have the "appropriate" length and the back of the tie is not secured to the front.

What makes the Sid Mashburn version of dishevelment so intriguing and stylish is that the colors, textures and fit of the outfit is impeccably arranged. The jackets are tailored with a nice Italian slim cut. The pants graze the top of the shoes, but are then rolled to show off the sockless ankles. The shoes are top of the line and more classic than you'll find in most men's closets. The entire outfit is Country Club appropriate, but it is done with a modern edge that would probably piss off the conservative codgers at the Country Club. And while all of these decisions are done with forethought, the outfit looks thrown together. As if each guy just happened to come up the perfect combination of colors and textures, it is sprezzatura in every way.

Mess with the tie, mess with the socks, mess with the colors, mess with rules of fashion, but whatever the means just make sure that you look far from perfect. Look perfectly imperfect.

Reiss - A UK Brand That Gets it Right

I stumbled across Reiss a brand out of UK and found that they certainly get it right.  Most impressively is the brands suits, that range from $650 to $850 depending on the material.  Mohair is the least expensive and the most expensive is luxury wool.

The suits are slim fit and tapered at the waist as a good suit should.  They come in great colors, but do not come in stripes, checks or houndstooths.  Reiss lets the suits tailoring do the talking.  The suits have slimmer lapels and come in either one or two button options on the single breasted.  This makes for the most flatter look. 

Our favorites include the 4x2 Double Breasted suit.  The long lapels elongate the body and make the man look slimmer.  This is accentuated with the trim fit and modern sized lapels.  This is certainly how a DB suit should look.

The sharkskin gray suit, with a shimmer of blue is a show stopping suit.  The flap pockets are every so slightly slanted for an aggressive look that is further emphasized by the single button design.  Yet it is the color that makes this suit shine.  It is neither blue nor gray but instead a middle ground color that makes for a wonderfully versatile suit.  The navy knit tie, royal blue pocket square and blue oxford complete a perfectly conservative business look.  Stylishly conservative, wonderfully boring.  It really lets the suit do the talking.

The royal blue suit from Reiss is another suit that lets the color do the talking.  It is a much brighter blue than is typically seen with a navy suit, while not being ostentatious or provide flash backs of Miami Vice.  This suit is a strong color for business, but promises that you will not get lost in the shuffle.  A simple shirt and tie combo with a white pocket square complete the outfit, leaving the heavy lifting for the suit.  That's nice for a change.

Finally is the three piece suit with peak lapels.  The vest underneath matches also has lapels which is quite British and formal.  Once the again the color is well designed, a light gray that can be worn year around, since it is not too light or dark.  It is a color that will compliment almost any tie and shirt combination in the closet.  With the addition of the vest, it also gives the suit more life with all the versatile options on how it can be worn.

Imperfection is Perfection

An outfit on any given day should an air of nonchalance. It should not elude to any planning or fore thought. Instead it should look carefree, spontaneous and effortless. The outfit should have mistakes, imperfections, elements of artful dishevelment and sprezzatura. The gentlemen that work at Sid Mashburn in Atlanta, Georgia, certainly dress with that thought in mind.

If your eyes do not prove to you the benefit of dressing with nonchalance, artful dishevelment and eccentricities as displayed by the Sid Mashburn crew than the following two quotes hopefully will.

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it."
- Salvador Dali

""I want to be loved, not in spite of my faults, but because of them.""
- Lise Bennett

The Italians use the term sprezzatura to describe the purposeful mistakes made in one's dress. I personally, think the term has an elegance to it that provides me with confidence when I break the conventional rules of style and fashion.

To prove my point, once again take a look at Peter Samuelson, Matt Lambert and Justin Doss, the featured employees of Sid Mashburn. Their clothes are well tailored and proportional. The colors and designs and looks are all traditional Americana. But it is the mistakes in the outfits that add the visual interest. No socks, short and crooked ties, button-down collars left un-buttoned, those are the eccentricities that define the outfit.

Rag & Bone - Minimalistic Elegance

Rag & Bone has a small studio store off the main drag, in what feels like a back alley.  The location is very fitting for the brand and their style, like a secret in plain sight.

The store, like the clothing is very minimalistic, simple, and uncluttered.  The display racks held one or maybe two examples of each item.  The men’s rack on the left side of the wall the women’s rack on the right; a table sharing accessories dividing the middle of the store.

In the back of the store sat a beautiful antique leather couch and chairs.  This was near the shoes and fitting room.  The store provided a simple, utilitarian design that uses absence of design and lack of flair to make a statement.  The clothing beautifully mimicked that design ethos.  Overall the clothing had plain muted colors, almost monochromatic, raw and untreated.

The clothing had clean lines and a slim fit.  The designs were deconstructed, removing the embellishments of style and leaving only the utilitarian elements.  Anything that will distract from the cut and fit of the garment is edited out of the final garment.  Quite a refreshing & classic design, especially considering the monstrosity Ed Hardy Store is a block away.  Rag & Bone is a refuge from the over indulgent clothing that permeates most stores.

I really enjoyed a few items they had on display, including a great pair of black boots.  They had a round toe, nice plain black leather, well constructed design, leather soles and all embellishments & unique design elements were removed in favor of clean, classic lines.  The elegance was in the minimalistic design.

I also enjoyed a beautiful gray suit.  It had beautiful classic lines with thin lapels and a slim fit cut.  No flaps on the hip pockets or patch pocket on the breast.  The fabric and cut of the jacket do the work in the garment; sometimes that is all that is needed.

I was impressed with the quality, feel and look of the wool garments.  Rag & Bone had wool beanies, sweaters and gloves that all beautifully weaved, with a vintage look.  The wool was almost as soft as the finest cashmere, yet it did not look to be delicate and airy.  The wool obviously was of the highest quality, breathable, strong and amazingly soft.

Rag & Bone certainly moved up my list of designers with a visit to the NYC store and that is the point to a retail location, isn’t it?

How to Wear a Skinny Tie

The appropriate width for a necktie is exactly 3 inches at its widest point. Some current trends beg for a tie of less width, which ends up looking hipster and try hard.  Some trends, notably a few Saville Row tailors want a tie of considerably more width.  Unfortunately, most retail stores sell ties that are about 4 inches in width, which looks dated and draws flashbacks of the heavy shoulder padded suits of the 80s and 90s.

Due to the trendy and inherently unstylish extremes in tie width, that is why the 3 inch middle ground is the best.  A 3 inch tie is actually quite conservative and classic, a tie width common for decades until the 1970s ruined more than just rock n roll.  The 3 inch tie is the neutral territory that will grow in popularity and commonality, especially as the 2 inch width becomes more widespread.

The three inch ties are more common with each passing day.  My favorite locations to buy the "slimmer" ties are:

J. Crew - ties sold are exactly 3 inches in width (for the most part).  They are very classically styled with great color combinations.  The Italian silk knit tie the width shrinks to 2 1/2 inches, so wear it caustiously.

Pink - Thomas Pink has a nice selection of slim ties all for $100 a piece.  The colors are typically either pinks or purples but they are nice.

Brooks Brothers - the conservative retailer has moved 3 inch ties into the regular rotation, albeit under the "slim" tie section.  These are beautiful ties, including a lot of rep stripes and even some madder patterns (like the one pictured above).  They also have a nice glen check that looks very sharp.

Ben Sherman - has a line of ties around the 3 inch width.  They come in aggressive colors and patterns and sold widely at Macys.  Some are more conservative than others, but it always good to have a few daring ties in the collection to spice up the white shirt and gray suit look.

Calvin Klein - a small but nice selection of skinny ties.  They are simple designs but usually have a little flair to keep them visually engaging.

Burberry - also makes some very conservative looking slim ties.  I think they may be a little over priced for the quality, personally opting for bespoke first, but they are very nice.  Especially the classic Burberry check.

If you want a timeless style go with the 3 inch width.  It will always be essential to a classic look and will never look as trendy as super skinny ties or the wide ties en vogue with the anchors at ESPN.