Showing posts with label natural shoulder. Show all posts
Showing posts with label natural shoulder. Show all posts

Monday, November 30, 2009

Holiday Office Party Attire, done the right way

The proper Holiday Office Party attire should be able to be accomplished with your current wardrobe. You want to make sure the outfit is professional, classic, modern and fun. It needs to be memorable without standing out and representative of your personal style. To make sure that you fit all the requirements, stick to the mainstay classics in your wardrobe.



Classic Charcoal Gray Suit - Stick with a perfectly tailored and trim fitting suit. Make sure it compliments you and actually fits. Go with a charcoal gray, it will go with anything. You should already know what suit I am describing; yes the "Money Suit". If you live in an area where the weather is appropriate, you might want to break out the flannel suit for this occasion, but remember there will be dancing. Trust me, there will be dancing.



Black Oxford Shoes - Wear the classic black oxford shoes. This is the perfect occasion to breakout the shoes that you wear to interviews, weddings and funerals. Now add Holiday Parties to that list.



Dress Shirt - Keep it classic. The well tailored, white dress shirt with medium spread pin point collar is the perfect call for the occasion.  Think of it as the base for your tie and pocket square selection. It also makes the transition to the after party very well. Just undue the collar roll up the sleeves and you can hang all night without looking like you walked out of a Christmas themed nightmare. Remember, there will be lots of pictures and some sent to your clients and vendors, keep it classic.






Tie - For the tie I would recommend a classic gray tie with hints of red or maroon or burgundy. This will give it a hint of the holidays without making it look like you've been dreaming of a white Christmas since July. I also think a solid dark red tie in a satin or silk would look great. If you are going with a pattern, keep it small and classic. A wool tie or silk knit would also look great, as the fabric would play well against the worsted wool suit. As always make sure the tie is 3" or skinnier. Since it is a party, you can go with a tie skinnier than normal, but please do yourself a favor and do not go down to the 2" tie.



Pocket Square - Have some fun, it is a party after all.  Go with a wool or silk red pocket square, patterned with other colors if it is wool.  If it is silk, go with a dark red and avoid the true red.  Another great option is the always appropriate white linen pocket square, worn off slightly off kilter.

Sprezzatura - Don't look too perfect.  That is an easy way too look like a nancy and have everyone hate you.  Mess something up a little bit.  Unbutton your cuffs, mess up the tie a bit, keep the pocket square sloppy.  No man should ever look perfect.




Socks - Have a lot of fun with your socks.  Make them brightly colored, striped, paisley, or another pattern.  Make them a different color than the suit and shirt.  Wear red, green, whatever.  This is a great opportunity to wear green and red plaid to go with the Christmas spirit, like the one above sold at Ben Silver.  It will be recognized and you will lauded for having pride in the season.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Drape Cut Suit




Everyone has their preferences with a way a suit should be cut. I personally think a softer edge to a suit makes a person look more approachable and it wears beautifully, gracefully draping the body rather than protruding in sharp angles. While I prefer a Drape Cut, I do feel the angular Continental Cut or "Power" suit has its place, especially in the boardrooms of Corporate America.



The difference between Drape Cut and Continental Cut is quite obvious, it all about the angles. In the picture of Luciano Barbera in his Drape Cut tweed suit, you can see how the jacket flows like water. It flows with the body and the movements of the body, falling naturally. The suit has natural shoulders and body structured by excess layers of cloth rather than rigid canvas. The suit looks as if it would fall into pile on the floor if it were not being worn. While a Continental Cut looks as if it would stand up on its own. The Drape Cut provides a smooth, natural and approachable look to the outfit, which if tailored correctly is quite striking in it own way.



With the Continental Cut below, the shoulder pads look quite rigid and dangerous. The suit provides a rough and angular edge to the look.  Subconsciously we see angular things as dangerous and evil... think about how all of the Disney villains are drawn, they all have angular bodies and faces.  Disney draws the good guys with soft natural lines. This is presented with the Continental Cut suit, but sometimes, that is exactly the look you want to promote. Especially in a cut throat Corporate world, an
angular suit may really help you out.



Know which suit goes best with certain occasions and wear it accordingly.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Suit: Natural Shoulders

Suit jackets are defined often by the shoulders. The rest of the jacket hangs from the shoulders and the shoulders help define the face of the wearer. Also, nothing makes a suit look out of style quicker than the shoulders. If the shoulders are too big you will look like a football player and it will make you look shorter, since it will shorten the length of your neck.

If the shoulders are too wide than the suit will make you look like a Dick Tracy mobster and will also shorten you by adding un-needed width. I have had to throw out at least one suit, due to unfortunate shoulder pad width.

The best looking suits have natural shoulders. This means minimal to no padding in the shoulders, letting the suit fit to your natural shoulder shape. This will help you look taller and slimmer, since the shoulders will have a nice shape without the extra padding or width. Suits are supposed to help your silhouette, making you look more masculine and powerful. Natural shoulders will define the shoulders, defining your face without hindering your look without unnecessary bulk.

You can tell a suit has natural shoulders by feeling for the padding in the shoulder. How bulky is it? Also, make sure that the shoulders of the suit stop at your natural shoulder. Keep the shoulder natural and you will have a suit that flatters your body and makes people turn their heads.