The "Italian background"

Italians love to wear a navy tie and light blue shirt with almost everything they wear. It can be considered the "Italian background" for a suit. It is conservative, classic and perfect for business. It might be the most universally appropriate shirt & tie combination. While it can be dull looking, it has tremendous value in its versatility and classical pairing.  Keep this pairing in mind when you want to push the boundaries in other areas of your outfit.

If you want to wear a brightly or vibrantly colored pocket square or an offbeat colored odd jacket or an odd vest with your suit. The "Italian background" will work great. It works with most any suit made, since it is so conservative, classic and quite frankly dull.  This conservative base allows for risks be taken in other areas without the outfit looking inappropriate. The "Italian background" grounds the outfit in a classic heritage that allows for the suits, pocket squares and odd jackets to be any thing but conservative.  Whenever you are not sure what will work with the new odd jacket that you just bought, think about the "Italian background", it will take the outfit from risky to downright dandy.

Style Profile - Chuck Bass (Gossip Girls)

I can't believe I am doing this, but I love the style too much to not do a profile on it. Chuck Bass a character on Gossip Girls has a fantastic dandy fashioner style. The wardrobe plays with bold colors, strong prints, well tailored suits, sprezzatura and aggressively pushes the boundaries of style. The look is a combination of classic style and modern chic fashion. It is a perfect mix of dressing classically while pushing the limits of what is possible with fashion. If the outfits make you angry or uncomfortable, that is the point. They are bold, cocky and arrogant while being classical and stylish. It is an amazing accomplishment to be this dandy, fashionable and classical. My hat is tipped to the stylists on Gossip Girls.

Style Profile - Gianni Agnelli

Gianni Agnelli - 1921-2003 - Head of Fiat

Popularized and epitomized Italian Sprezzatura fashion. Sprezzatura meaning "Artful Dishevelment", was accomplished by Agnelli by wearing his watch over his shirt cuff, twisting his tie, wearing no shoes or interesting shoes (see the boots below) and wearing short ties. Agnelli also wore beautifully tailored Caraceni suits that fit him perfectly, matching those suits with the Sprezzatura elements.

Gianni Agnelli played with the subtle elements of his outfits, while following the rules on the basics of his outfit. Notice how his suits are made out of great materials and tailored to fit him perfectly. The suits are always appropriate, which allow him to wear a shorter than normal tie, or wear his watch over his cuff.

Agnelli played up the sprezzatura elements of his outfits to disconcert his rivals and to allow others to misjudge his competence. Agnelli capitalized on his competitions under estimation.

Gianni Agnelli's ability to dress with style and become a style icon should be studied. As Agnelli would want you to remember, keep it stylish but non-chalant, keep it classic, keep it personalized, keep it fun.

Oxfords vs. Blucher - The distinction is key

Every man needs a pair of Oxford's in his closet. They are the most versatile and dressy shoe a man can own. They are the go to Wedding shoe, Interview shoe, Funeral shoe and if you don't have a true formal shoe the only shoe in the closet appropriate for Black Tie events. They are classy, simple and go with any suit, can be worn with business casual and with jeans. (Pictured above is a Bruno Magli Cap Toe Oxford). But please do not confuse the Oxford with the Blucher.

The Blucher is a casual shoe. It was originally designed to be worn on weekends and is a setup down from the Oxford. It is less elegant and very limited in its use. It can only properly be worn with business casual. It is not be worn with a suit, on an interview, wedding or funeral. And it must never be worn to a black tie event. The worst thing about Bluchers and Oxfords is that most shoe companies mislabel Bluchers as Oxfords. Search for a Cap Toe Oxford online and your search results will be inundated with Bluchers. Do these companies, which make and sell shoes for a living even know the difference? Do they care?

The distinction is simple. Pictured below are two examples of Bluchers mascerading as Oxfords (Giorgio Brutini on top and Johnston & Murphy on the bottom). The difference is how the laces are connected to the vamp. The Vamp is main front portion of the shoe. On a Blucher the laces are placed directly on top of the vamp. On an Oxford the vamp covers the laces creating a throat line. (Here is a great diagraphm of the anatomy of an Oxford). By having the vamp cover the laces and the creation of a throat line, the Oxford has a more finished and polished look. It ends up with a more sophisticated look which allows the shoes to be more a functions that require best dressed attire.

Next time you go shopping beaware of difference and choose appropriately. Go for an Oxford and leave the Bluchers for everyone else.

Persol sunglasses

Like a lot of the best things in fashion, Persols are made in Italy. The
name comes from Italian "Per Sol", meaning "For the Sun". Persols are the
best made sunglasses in the world. They have the style you'd expect from a
classic and the amenities you'd except from a luxury brand. Persols also
focus on making glasses, so they are as focused on the utilitarian function
of the glasses as much as the fashionable look. Throw into the mix that
they have been worn by some of the coolest men in the world and you can
understand why they are legendary.

Steve McQueen wore the infamous blue lens Persol 714 in the Thomas Crown
affair. James Bond (Roger Craig) wore two different pairs of Persols in
Casino Royale (pictured are the Persol 2720). Persols have also been donned
by other celebrities: Jack Nicholson, Richard Gere, Paul Newman, Roberto
Rossellini, Cindy Crawford, Nicolas Cage, Pierce Brosnan, Brad Pitt,
Angelina Jolie, Christian Slater, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Heath Ledger, Al
Pacino, George Clooney and Adrien Brody.

Persols are recognized by the classic metal hinge which looks stylish as
well as adds support to the folding arms. Each arm is designed with two to
four lines on it. These lines are utilitarian in nature making the arms
bend to prevent damage when you sit on them, or your child squeezes them.
Steve McQueen's Persol 714s even have hinges built in the bridge and the
arms, so they can be carried easily in a pocket.

Let us here at DF know if you have any other favorite glasses or sunglasses
brands.

Cuff Links

Cuff links are a great way to dress up a shirt, but they are also a way to show off your personal style and add flair to otherwise fairly normal and conservative outfit. These cuff links certainly add a little bit of rebellion and flair to wardrobe.

Up top are Ravi Ratan's James Bond Casino Royale cuffs

The Football cuff links are also Ravi Ratan. He makes an entire series of cuff links for each NFL and MLB team, chic way to show some team spirit. Especially in a stuffy office environment.

The Skull & Bones and the Multicolored checkerboard cuffs are both by David Donahue. I thinking adding details like Skull & Bones cuff links (done as exquisitely as these) can really show off your personality without offending anyone or sacrificing your dandy fashion sense. I think these are the cuff links are perfect for James Dean.

The last pair of cuff links are by Burberry. I think they would look impeccable with a Burberry scarf in the winter. The subtle connection between the two patterns is so understated it would almost seem accident, it would never come off as too perfect or too much of a match. The perfect combination, anything more than that with this pattern would seem too much like a Burberry catalogue ad, just not appropriate for real life.

Old School Cool

Some more old school jean pictures. The men in these pictures wear their clothes well. There is a nonchalance to the clothes that they wear and how they wear them. Style & Fashion comes off as an after thought, yet they are all immersed in it. But the utilitarian aspect of their clothes is very clear. Also, as we have discussed before, the jeans are all slim and well tailored.

Steve McQueen in the top photo, no one has ever pulled off a white shirt and jeans better. But notice he doesn't go with the typical black boots, but instead comfortable understated shoes. I can imagine them being brown suede boots, similar to these suede McAllister boots at JCrew. It makes the outfit more natural and less try-hard. A white shirt and jeans can easily come off as try-hard, because it is such a simple outfit.

The two men below have great natural style. The Cable knit sweater over the polo shirt on the man on the left is naturally cool. A classic style that will never go out of fashion. The man on the right has a great jacket over a button-down shirt. Both have jeans tucked into calf height boots, due to the mud more than the style. That is how that look can be done best, when it is necessary to keep the jeans out of the mud or rain puddles. Otherwise, it looks to planned, but when it has a purpose it looks natural, necessary and very fashionable.

In the final photo, the man on the car has great style. He has the cuffed jeans and loafers, a great and classic look. This look is best modernized with either colored socks to match the shirt or no socks at all. Also, I prefer loafers with no tassles. He has a herringbone or tweed jacket which is great way to dress up the jeans. The collar on the jacket is popped, not out of style, but out of necessity, since he is waiting outside on his car hood for his date. Once again, the utilitarian need for the popped collar gives the fashion purpose and makes it look very natural. A popped collar for no reason looks out of place and planned.

Fashion is best when it looks natural, fits the surroundings, is purposeful, appropriate and shows no signs of long-term planning. Style comes from the un-planned, subtle details that make it look sprezzatura rather than forced. Focus on making the little touches look spontaneous, even if there is extensive planning behind them. Think old school cool and your style will come through in the details.

The proper way to dress up a pair of jeans

To continue on the theme of jeans, dressing up a pair of jeans is a critical element to being a dandy fashionier.



Think of your jeans as a pair of neutral slacks, they go with any outfit and color combination. The picture is courtesy of The Sartorialist (thesartorialist.blogspot.com. I hope he doesn't mind). Notice the slim straight cut to the jeans, they add personality to the outfit. The jeans add a rebellious casual element to the classic tie, shirt and sport coat combination. Jeans are an easy way to add sprezzatura to an outfit.



We here at DF love his elegant use of no socks, sometimes the best accessory is the absence of one. This is another subtle element to add sprezzatura to his style. (It looks like he accidentally left the house without socks, but he meant to, and man he looks good.)



Also got to love the blue Ray Ban Wayfarers. Nice tie-in to the jeans and tie. Note that the blues don't match they are just in the same color family.

Jeans - How to wear them correctly, Vintage is the key

Jeans epitomize American style and have been uniquely American since the early 1900s. They are loved by the world over and have taken many transformations over the years. Most notably in the 1980s when jeans were made by top fashion designers, they became more universally worn. That launched the ability to dress up jeans as much as dress down the jeans.

Today, very man should be able to pair his jeans with a button down shirt shirt and tie as easily as he can with a tshirt. Jeans are a basic and common element to most men's wardrobes and this is a good thing. Jeans are too versatile to be forgotten about in your wardrobe. Women will agree a man in a pair of jeans and plain gray shirt can be unforgettable. Throw on a cashmere sweater and jeans and it can be worn almost anywhere with ease. The possibilities are endless.

It also seems that the varieties of jeans are endless as well. Jeans come in all shapes, sizes, washes and ornimentation. It can really get distracting and hard to find the best pair of jeans to buy. One rule of thumb I employ is to think vintage. The essence of jeans is simple easy to wear style. Looking at the pictures of jeans from the 1950s (the best time for jeans) you can see the jeans were simple, no gaudy oriments, jewels, studs or stiching. Leave all of that for women to wear, self-respecting men should leave the peacocked jeans for others.

The men wearing the jeans in the 50s are working class men, young rebels and style icons. They all wear jeans that are distressed to various different levels, some are very worn in, others are a much darker less worn in look. But none of the jeans have holes or rips. The jeans look worn, as any good pair should, but leave the holes to others. The rips and holes are tacky and make you look like you can't afford a good pair of jeans (I don't care how much you payed for your rips and holes, it looks dumb). Stick with the distressed and wiskered jeans. There are plenty made that do not have rips and holes. And if you must own holey jeans... NEVER ever try to dress them up, realize what they are.

The most important thing to notice is the jeans are slim but not tight. Techinally the jeans are a slim straight cut. The baggy jeans, the relaxed fit, the skin tight or skinny jeans are all left behind for a simple straight cut jean. Make sure you wear the jeans... not them wearing you. Stick with the well tailored jeans. I like the vintage slim cuts by Levi (Capital E) and J.Crew. The slimmy cut by 7 for All Mankind, Joe's Jeans "Brixton" cut, the slim straight by Levi (514) and the slim straight by Gap. These cuts will fit each person differently but they are a classic and more vintage look.

Washes on jeans can be done a few ways. The dark wash and black wash on jeans (with little to no distressing) is best to dress up and a must in every closet. The gray wash and distressed washes are best for casual settings with just a t-shirt or a nice button down work shirt. The lighter washes can be worn similarly but can be great as a summer jean. Another good summer jean is a cream colored jean (stay away from the white jeans). If you only have the budget for two pairs of jeans... stick with a dark wash jean and a slightly distressed medium wash.

Remember to think vintage. They knew how to wear their jeans.

For a history on jeans click here.